Thread: Installing Recoil Plates in a Coachwood Stock(PIC Heavy)
Retrieved: 06/18/2014

Well now, the kids started school and I'm off from work. I received new recoil plates w/screws from Brian Bick of BDLLTD this week, for my latest Aussie No.1 Mk111. Now for the fun part, the installation! Tools needed, 1 chisel, 1 Black & Decker hand driver, 2 bit extensions, 1 1/16 drill bit, 1 number 6 slotted bit and plenty of patience.

An image of a Naked Coachwood stock missing the Recoil Plates

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Sizing up the RPs in the stock, and for a representation of how much material will need to be removed.

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Photos of the reciprocating receiver parts.

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I started on the left side of the stock, because I'm left handed and it's easier for me to work on with the chisel. Plus, this is the lengthiest part for fitting, as material is removed slowly and carefully. Care is taken only to remove what's necessary and no more.

Here, I have already removed enough material to allow the RP to fit flush with the recoil blocks on the stock. The manner for removal of the wood, was pushing down by hand, and removing small amounts.

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Top view of the wood removed from the left side. At this point, I also scored the left side recoil block by holding a recoil plate where it's going then marked it with a chisel, by pressing down firmly.

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Now for the fun part! I removed the wood slowly and deliberately with and even upward stroke. As you can see not a lot of wood is removed in each stroke. I found out later that using the other side of the chisel worked better for me. Even being careful, I did find high spots that had to be removed in the process.

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After a bit, the debris was building up;

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Several the key points I kept checking on the Recoil Block was;

1.The angle remains the same as the other Recoil Block

2. Removing wood evenly perpendicular to the side, so the recoil plate will sit flat against the recoil lug when the action is fitted.

3. Once I got close to the scored wood, I slowed down. It’s time to start fitting the action.

After number 3, I continued removing wood, but after every 2-3 scrapes, I test fitted the receiver. I kept looking down through the action to see how much more material needed to be removed, before I proceeded. (I removed the sear for better pictures, but it doesn't need to be removed).

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SHAZAM! One side down, one to go! The pencil is pointing at the visible Recoil Plate. The stock fits tight, but not too tight, I didn’t want to require a sledge hammer to get the forestock off.

Front view of the finished side.* Notice the crack in the center of the stock, I'll have to deal with this later*

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Sizing up the other side, I've already scored this block the same way as the left side.

A picture of wood removal on the right wall of the stock.

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Here, again I'm checking to see if the Plate sits flush, and is out of the way of the trigger sear.

Now, with the left side completed, I was able to expedite the installation of the right side. Using the scored wood and visually checking the receiver gap, by placing the stock on the receiver, I eliminated a lot of on/off stock placement. Here's the gap on the finished left side w/o RP, and the unfinished right side w/o RP. Even though, I was working a bit quicker, I still continued checking the initial key points listed above.

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Just over 3 hours and both recoil plates are ready to be secured.

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Don’t laugh at my jerry rigging, but I haven’t found an easier way to drill the screw holes. Using an electric driver with 2 extensions and a 1/16 drill bit. I marked the hole with the RP in place. I then used a black sharpie and marked the depth on the drill bit, and set the hole. Works like a charm.

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Work Stoppage - The 2nd brass screw failed to have the slot engraved.

No problemo, that's what dremel tools are made for. Back in business!

Second hole drilled and tapped.

PICTURE 404 Both plates installed, ready for the action.

Action in place, both plates visible with the sear installed too.

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Aussie SMLE No.1 Mk111 ready for the range - Total time around 4 hours.

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I hope this helps others who have the Coachwood No.1 MkIII's that don't have recoil plates. By no means is this the end all for RP installation, but the way I have done it everytime.