Maybe someone can figure this out...
I installed a CMC lightweight trigger in my 1991a1 and it seems to have a lot of rather heavy takeup (approx. 1/8 - 1/4 in.) If I adjust the screw in any further than where it is the trigger won't travel enough to release the sear. Is this something I'm just going to have to live with or is there a viable solution.
What was the action like before you installed the new trigger? Does the trigger move freely in the track (ie, will it move on its own if you tilt the frame)? Are all the bearing surfaces on the trigger bow polished nicely?
The screw only addresses overtravel (how much trigger motion is left after the hammer releases)... all that creep and the heaviness you describe is usually attributable to the sear/hammer engagement being out of spec. That's why it would be good to know what the trigger action was like with the original stock trigger.
The adjustable screw on your trigger only adjust your overtravel. It does not address takeup and only a trigger with tabs on it like the Nowlin trigger can you adjust your take up on. If you want to get rid of your takeup you might have to get another trigger.
Hey, Chris... it seems to me that you could create those overtravel adjustment tabs on most trigger bows by notching the front of it to duplicate the tabs on the Nowlin trigger. Dremel makes abrasive disks that are only about .025 thick, and with a steady hand and some patience it ought to be doable. Whaddya think?
quote:
Dremel makes abrasive disks that are only about .025 thick, and with a
steady hand and some patience it ought to be doable. Whaddya think?
Absolutely it could be done. I do not even think it would be difficult to do. I will admit I have never done it but have heard of several who have with good results. It is probably a good alternative if you already have a good trigger and just want to get rid of your take-up.
For those of us (me) that do not know about the tabs on the bow, can you clue us in. Thanks
Here's a simple sketch of the trigger and bow looking at the unit face-on towards the trigger. I've exaggerated the cuts that make the tabs... they should be as thin as possible. As I mentioned earlier, a Dremel #409 disk is .025" thick and would work ok at making the cuts. I'd suggest that you make the vertical cuts first, as during them you'd reduce the OD of the cutting disk a bit... it needs to be considerably smaller than the 15/16" diameter that it starts out at to safely make the horizontal cuts. The tabs only need to be 1/4 to 1/3 the height of the trigger bow. Once the tabs are created you bend them forward so they bump into the front edge of the trigger track, effectively moving the trigger's at-rest position to the rear, thereby shortening the take-up. Between this adjustment and limiting the overtravel with the adjustment screw you can shorten the overall trigger throw down to just what it takes to disengage the sear.
I don't think anyone would recommend that finely tuned a trigger on a carry weapon, but for a bullseye shooter it would be the cat's meow.
Ok, ok... I know you're all thinking it so I'll go ahead and say it...
... Why didn't I think of that!
Excellent sketch marvkaye, and for those who not feel skilled enough with a dremel Nowlin makes a nice trigger with this feature. Personally if you already have a dremel I would give this mod a try as you can always still get the Nowlin trigger if you botch the job.
Marvkaye nice job explaining the idea. I agree with j.tuohy about the why didn't I think of that.
Rather than trying to cut takeup tabs (which I think would be time consuming) you can apply a small drop of silver solder on each front radius of the trigger bows. If your drop of silver solder is too big you just file it down a little at a time till you have the trigger takeup where you want it. Basically anything that will build up the front of the bow which in turn will limit trigger movement toward the muzzel end of the pistol will work. BTW, I have a CMC trigger in my Caspian based project 1911 and it does have takeup tabs. They don't look like the drawing above they are located under the bow not flush with the top of the bow. See the CMC trigger pic below and note the tabs located underneath the bow frame behind the trigger pad. From CMC they have the same radius as the bow frame and mine only needed to be bent maybe .020 out to accomplish the adjustment that was needed. Always keep in mind that you only need a very small adjustment to have a big effect on the forward movement of the trigger.
I had to bring this one back up for those who have been following along...
For all interested, yep, I'm a dumba$$. I took the trigger back out and lo and behold, just like Konza said, the CMC trigger has takeup adjustment tabs!
I hope this helps someone and I'm not the only one who has overlooked the obvious.