I am putting the finishing touches on a Officer Model clone and have run into something that has me vexed. There is too much front end trigger travel before I can feel the sear nd disconnector. Everything looks in good positioning. The sear and trigger angles are dead on. I know I can "cure" the slack by silver soldering a shim on the bow. But before I go to that extreme, anyone got any ideas?
This is not uncommon, some aftermarket triggers have a little tab cut in the bow just where they meet at shoe. That is there so that you can bend it to sort of push back one the trigger and take-up most of that creep. I know that the Chip McCormick and SVT triggers have this feature for certain, but it's likely that most all of them do by now so check to see if yours does.
There's also JB Weld and Acraglass that you can use, but I don't suggest doing it that way unless you're willing to take that risk and/or you're just desperate.
I know this was discussed in the past & there were good pictures posted that showed the "tab" I am referring to this is all I can come up with on the spot hopefully it's enough to explain what I'm trying to say.
What I think you are trying to say is your takeup is excessive. When I have excessive takeup I put in a Nowlin trigger, roughly half of the triggers out there have takup tabs so if you buy a trigger to remedy this situation do your homework. But no worries as its a easy fix. Many have cut the trigger bow with a dremel and cutoff tool and have had good success making there own takeup tabs. While that is always an option I usually opt for a new part as I love to have an abundance of extra used parts.
I'm not so sure that that tab will help. I used a Cylinder and Slide trigger and never had this problem before. It is almost like the trigger bow is .050 to .060" too short. The disconnector is sitting on t he bow, the sear spring is right there. It takes about .055" to start engaging the sear. I will try another trigger, but I think that the fix will be to sliver solder a shim on the left side of the bow to tension the disconnector and sear. Any other comments welcome. :blues:
Actually a tab will help because it would not allow the trigger to go as far forward in the trigger track. Of course soldering a shim to lengthen and take up some of the takeup on the disconnector/sear would also work. The shim idea is one that has been around for awhile as its in one of my 1911smithing books around here somewhere.
I will be ordering a new trigger, one with a tab. That soldering trick was one of the first 1911 fix tricks I learned. The only problem is if you are not careful with the shim thickness, you put too much pressure on the disconnector giving a whle new meaning to hair trigger. I will do both and see which turns out better.