1911 Trigger Problem

original: thehighroad.org
Retrieved: November 16, 2011
Last Post: October 04, 2007

Linkinlog
October 2, 2007

I installed a new, adjustable trigger in my RIA Tactical 1911 a few weeks ago and finally got a chance to hit the range this past weekend. I go to the range and inserted a mag loaded w/ 230gr WWB ammo.

I pulled the trigger, the hammer dropped... but no bang?!

The only thing changed was the trigger.

I tried again with a different mag and got the same result.

I didn't notice any dents in the primer on the two bullets. I still have them though so I will look again.

The ammo has been sitting in those two mags for at least a month.

I decided not to press my luck and shot a different gun instead.

What could be causing this? Could the adjustment screw in the trigger cause it to act this way?


critter
October 2, 2007

I had the same thing happen in a 1911. Mine was due to the firing pin safety. It needed the overtravel of the trigger after the sear was tripped to push the safety plunger up. When I installed a new trigger with an overtravel stop, she quit working.

Try backing out on the overtravel screw and see if it goes to work again. If it goes to work again, there is your problem. If that doesn't make it work again, I do not know what might be the cause. Wiser heads will be along shortly.

I fixed mine by turning the firing pin safety plunger in a drill motor and increasing the length of the small 'waist' of the plunger with a file and stones.


Fumbler
October 4, 2007

Rock Island Armory 1911s do not have firing pin safeties.

But, Critter is still probably onto something. Maybe your trigger isn't allowing enough overtravel to push the sear out of the way of the half cock notch.

The result could be a hammer that only drops to half cock when the trigger's pulled.

The fix would be the same, back out the overtravel scew.


Linkinlog
October 4, 2007

I backed out the screw last night. It was definitely the problem. It was all the way in. Thanks for the help!


rcmodel
October 4, 2007

To adjust the over-travel screw properly, turn it in until it won't release the hammer.

Then back it out while moving the hammer back and forth with your thumb.

You will be able to feel the hammer hooks first engaging the intercept notch, then begin to just slightly touch it as you continue to back out the adjustment screw.

Once you reach that point, back it off another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Your objective should be complete sear clearance of the intercept notch, without any excess over-travel after the sear releases.


Old Fuff
October 4, 2007

On the other hand if you have any thought of using your pistol for a weapon, take out that screw and pitch it! It is intended to be used in target guns and big-boy toys...


adweisbe
October 4, 2007

Some guns will double and triple if you take the overtravel screw out. My S&W did that out of the box and I know one other person who had that problem with their S&W because the screw was not in far enough. The EGW and BCP triggers have fixed overtravel stops that you file down.

So is it overtravel, over-travel, or over travel?


RogersPrecision
October 4, 2007

fuffy,
Your advice is not correct for several of the clones. They rely on the overtravel stop to prevent the trigger bow from lifting the sear spring clear of the disconnector and/or sear.

I would agree that a properly made grip safety negates the NEED for the stop, but we gotta work with what we are given.

linkin,
Be sure to degrease and red Loc-Tite the screw in place once it is set.


Old Fuff
October 4, 2007

Quote:
Your advice is not correct for several of the clones.

I know, but I would consider them to be a poor choice for a practical weapon.

Quote:
They rely on the overtravel stop to prevent the trigger bow from lifting the sear spring clear of the disconnector and/or sear.

In that case I'd say they had things adjusted a bit fine...

Your point about the grip safety is a good one, particularly with pre-series 80 style grip safeties. A lot more work, but better for serious purposes.


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