Would like to get an advice if there is a special precaution on installing the hammer strut pin on the hammer strut and hammer.
I just bought those GI parts above and want to install it, but would have to put them together first.
Other than orienting the strut properly (so it's arched toward the "front"), the only other things relate to how well the pin fits its hole in the hammer:
* The pin might be 0.001" smaller than its hole in which case it should be LocTited in place or given a slight bend to prevent its loss
* If the pin & hole are average size, the pin should be a light press fit and stay in place.
* The pin could be 0.001" bigger than the hole, taking some effort to press in. If it's really a hard press fit, I'd either find a smaller pin or shim the "slop space" between the strut and slot with feeler stock so the pressing effort can't pinch the sides of the hammer together.
I will have to use either one of these when the parts have arrived. Hopefully I won't encounter major issues installing it.
My advice is to stake the pin. Once you have it in place, make sure its even on both sides. Then, while laying the side of the hammer/pin on a flat, steel surface, place the tip of a center-punch in the middle of the pin and strike it HARD with a good hammer. This is called staking; it will cause the metal around the strike to displace and will fill the pin hole better.
Once you've staked it in place check again to make sure it's even on both sides; if need be lightly stone (or sand using very fine paper) the side of the hammer/pin area to ensure there will be no drag in the frame, and you're done! A proper hammer strut installation that will not work its way out and add drag to the action.
My Harrison Design strut pin was a VERY tight fit in the HD hammer.
I felt no staking was neccessary; as that pin isn't going anywhere.
FYI:
With the Kimber hammer and strut that were being replaced; their strut pin
was staked near the edge, not centered, so that a bit of the pin metal
extruded out to the side.
Seems to me that would be a better way to go than staking the pin in the center.
So which is much preferable to use for staking, a regular pin-punch or a center punch?
Quote:
I felt no staking was neccessary; as that pin isn't going anywhere.
This can absolutely be the case. If hammering it in has it secure, there's little to be gained by staking. All you're really after is to prevent the pin from walking to either side and introducing drag by contacting the frame.
Quote:
their strut pin was staked near the edge, not centered, so that a bit of
the pin metal extruded out to the side. Seems to me that would be a better way
to go than staking the pin in the center.
I can see where that would displace a large amount of material in one spot and make the stake job quicker, but I personally prefer to center it; the material is displaced more evenly around the pin end and in the hammer's pin hole. I seriously doubt any ill effects would arise from non-centered staking; it's not likely to crack for example.
I'm not saying that my way is the ONLY or BEST way; it's just how I was taught and how I've been doing it for years, but that doesn't mean there's not a better way!
Quote:
So which is much preferable to use for staking, a regular pin-punch or a
center punch?
You'll definitely need to use a center punch. A regular punch will be flat- faced; you're after one with a pointed tip like this example: