I can't imagine why this has started to happen. I replaced the spring in the plunger tube, but it's still loose enough to easily pop the slide lock out when the slide is back. The mags I'm using are Wilson 10 rounders; they're all I have so I can't compare them to others. I'm rather curious about why the last shot is not staying locked up when this slide lock has wiggled out. Actually, the whole thing is curious and I was sure the plunger spring wasn't giving it all enough tension, but now that I've replaced it I don't know what to think.
The end of the slide stop where the plunger contacts it should have a dimple on it for the tip of the plunger to engage in. Many current manufacture slide stops lack this feature, and what you've experienced is generally the result.
You have several choices: replace the slide stop with a properly manufactured part; grind a dimple in it with your Dremel; buy the special 'spotting' drill bit from Brownells and do it the 'right' way; or take your gun to a gunsmith and have him do it. The bit costs less than what a gunsmith is likely to charge you.
The tip of the slide stop forces the magazine follower upwards after the last round, which is what locks the slide back. Since your slide stop isn't in the correct position when you fire the last round, it can't do this. That's why the slide doesn't stay back.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...002000&s=19210
Wow, that's pretty ingenious. I take it a regular drill bit for steel through the plunger tube won't work as well as that spotting one?
This only just started when I replaced all my 10 round McCormicks with these new 10 round Wilson Combat's. I wonder if the shape of the follower on those is what's caused this issue to arise suddenly. I've had this pistol for over a year, but this just started. It actually seems to only walk out after the follower has tried to catch the slide lock.
Quote:
I take it a regular drill bit for steel through the plunger tube won't work
as well as that spotting one?
NO, it won't!
And you can easily damage the plunger tube with a drill bit.
IF you can even find one that small that's long enough to turn it.
A less expensive way?
Take the slide-stop out and "color" it with a magic-marker. Now put it back in and cycle the gun a few times with an empty mag in place.
Now you can see exactly where the plunger rubs on the slide stop face.
Take a round carbide dental burr in a Dremel and put a small dimple at the top of the scratched off magic-marker.
If the manufacturer made the slide stop properly, you wouldn't need any "dimple." Several million M1911 and M1911A1 pistols don't have it and the slide stop doesn't come out.
I would return it to the manufacturer and tell them to fix it. (But I admit cutting a dimple is cheaper.)
Careful, Jim. You can draw flak for suggesting that many modern 1911-pattern pistols are within spec by happy accident.
That said...
General... pay attention the next time that you shoot it to make sure that you aren't pressing against the right end of the pin with your hand, especially if you're a southpaw with the thumb of your right hand.
Also... If the glitch shows up on the last round, it may well be the mag follower's elevator shelf causing it. Another spec issue, by the way.
With the gun in battery, press on the right end of the pin to see if the stop will pop out. It shouldn't do that under any circumstances, and if it does... the top of the slidestop lug isn't being captured by the slide.
Either the lug is out of spec, or the slide is located too high on the frame rails and letting the top of the slidestop lug get past it. After applying pressure to it with your hand, this is most suspect, because for the slidestop in an in-spec gun to disengage requires a very narrow window of opportunity... because it has to be well aligned with the takedown notch in order to come out. The odds of that happening at full speed are low unless you push it, or the stop's lug isn't captive by the slide.
Thanks 1911Tuner; that does make a lot of sense. What are your thoughts on the missing "dimple" in the slide lock? The lock doesn't budge when it's in full battery, but it does slide out rather easy when the slide it back to the release notch; it thought it should come in and out of that notch with more effort?
I'm suspecting the Wilson 10 rounders at this point. The follower/elevator shelf is unique on these Wilson 10's; the shelf bows upward instead of inward like on the 47D's they make. I think it does happen on the last round, but I'm going to take 'er out today and make sure.
The dismount notch is the only place that slide stop should come out, but it should push out easily at that point. In firing, the slide stop won't come out because there is really no chance with the slide moving fast, and the normal friction of the slide stop plunger should keep it in place (unless the shooter actually pushes on on the right side with his index finger).
I'm pretty sure it must be the Wilson 10 round mags. I cycled a full mag and this happened on the final round; I think the shape of the follower pushes up on it and moves it...?
Did you check to mke sure the little "ear" on the inside of slide lock did not break off? This may be pointing out the obvious, but no one mentioned it. I am the dept. armorer for a Sheriff's Office that uses DRMO 1911's and I have had to replace a few broken slide stops. I have also replaced a number of individual owned 1911 slide stops that broke, mostly either very old 1911s, or newer models with MIM stops.
Guess I've seen most of what can happen to a 1911, but normally it's just a failure to lock the slide open. Rarely does one walk out like that. I second the motion on the Brownell's drill bit idea, or the Dremel idea. I actually do BOTH to my guns and to ones I do for other people. First I use the Brownell's drill bit to mark the area that needs dimpling, and drill it long enough to get it started making the dimple. Then I finish the job with a round carbide or diamond ended Dremel bit. Works great, BUT: you may have to polish in a bit of a tiny "ramp" at the bottom of the dimple so that the slide stop will continue to function. If you don't, sometimes the dimple holds the slide stop down too well, and the slide won't lock back properly when the gun goes empty, or when you do it by hand.
As for the Wilson mags, I know alot of people love them. I personally use alot of Wilson products EXCEPT their magazines. I've seen too many follower- related issues with some makes of guns. Sometimes using Wilson mags will require you to spend other $$ on the gun just to make them work. I've found that McCormick style mags, and my favorite - Metalform mags - work alot better for alot of guns. Better price, too. Having worked on alot of 1911's over the years, I only want METAL followers in my magazines. I could care less if my mags have removeable base plates or not. Happy shootin'