When ever I reassemble my gun, I always run into issues with the slide stop. I DO NOT really have any trouble lining up the holes, but what I do have problems with is getting the slide stop in front of the plunger. What I generally do is take a pointed object of some sort, push back the plunger, and then slide the slide stop into place.
Is this how you're supposed to install it? I looked on youtube, and it seems like people don't push down the plunger at all and instead just slide the slide stop up. I tried to do this but couldn't get it in place. Thanks.
you need to come in from an angle. first you need to line up the slide stop below plunger "knob" and push up and in at the same time. when you first line it up and push "up" against the plunger, it will depress the plunger and allow you to simply push it in.
Yeah, what Maui-onion said! For me it's a fluid motion, up and in, that's the best way I can describe it.
Good luck and don't get too upset if you put a "character mark" in the frame from trying to perfect the motion!
This works pretty well.
This is a modification I do on just about all slide stops as it allows easy installation and doesn't affect function. It is easily done with a needle file. To install, the slide stop is positioned directly on top of the plunger and you can feel it saddle over it and push it straight in. Bingo!
Here's a picture of it in place and ready to push straight in.
The thing is that when I push up on the slide stop I feel like I will need to force it into the plunger and potentially damage it.
You won't damage the plunger, this isn't fine crystal china... it's cold, hard steel!
I periodically tilt the frame up, put a drop of oil on the plunger, and exercise it with the "handle end" of a tooth brush. This seems to help the slide stop snap in easier with one fluid motion as described above. But I already have a character mark on the frame anyway. LOL.
I have one or two 1911's that need a little "help" as you describe.
The others work as noted in the other posts.
I use an old laminated card placed on the frame right below the hole to preclude the possibility of an idiot scratch occurring.
I was terrified of the prospect of needing to do this operation without creating the idiot scratch that is so common on my new custom. I searched the net for "idiot scratch" and came up with a bunch of material including videos and ads for a "tool". The tool seems to be made of thin plastic but once seen can be easily duplicated by cutting your own. One mylar "sheet protector" available at any stationary store would be enough for a lifetime supply. By then you will have notched the SS as shown in several posts or will have mastered the move and be out of the woods.
This method works great, but if you are not up to it, then just line it up above the plunger, push the plunger using this tool.
Brownell's 10-8 tool:
I like the term "Character mark", myself. I would venture that the majority of folks playing with a lot of them , in the beginning, managed to give a 1911 some "character". It is a lot like a wet soap bar squirting from underfoot. The groove, in the photo, is a nice way, helps even in the dark. Another way is to bevel and polish the face which contacts the plunger at insertion to cam the pin back more easily.
Beveling the slide stop works quite well at easing insertion. However that can lessen the lug footprint and allow the follower to jump past. The groove as log man has shown doesn't change that.
FYI, Nighthawk pistols comes from the factory with the grove already there.
To install, just push straight down...
The slide stop plungers are usually all very close in length. However not every plunger tube is drilled to the proper depth and some are over drilled. Consequently, the plunger can protrude .020"-.040" too far, or more. You need to shorten the nose of the plunger, re-establish the radius and adjust it to Big Jon's suggested groove modification. Then you will have a very nice set up for slide stop entry without that jammed forced feeling on the plunger nose.
I have a pretty good character mark there as well.
What is the purpose of the plunger?
The plunger is there to hold the slide stop down and prevent it from jumping up and locking the slide, unless of course the magazine is empty or you manually lock the slide. The other end of the plunger also acts as a detent, except for the safety.
The plunger should stick out 0.087 +/- 0.010 inch in front of the tube and there should be a 0.036 +/- 0.010 inch gap between the tube and the stop. So if the plunger sticks out more than 0.097" or the gap is less than 0.026" either:
* The slide stop is made wrong,
* the plunger is made wrong,
* the plunger tube is made wrong, or (perish the thought)
* the plunger tube is mounted too far forward.