How many people out there have a Llama .45 with the barrel bushing groove screwed up due to too soft metal there?

Don't know about the barrel bushing part but I've had several Llama's in 45 and they all were very cheaply made and always had issues... but hey for a $195 gun (what they cost then)? couldn't complain.

Can a person TIG, MIG or stick weld on the slide?

Probably, but the metal is so soft I'm not sure what it is, so I wouldn't know what filler to use.

One word of caution when welding on a Llama 1911 slide; there were at least 2 versions. One was a real forged or machined from a solid piece slide. This one is distinguishable as having the same lines up front as a standard 1911, specifically around the recoil spring tunnel. The other version is different. Where the sides of the spring tunnel are cut down narrower than the rest of the slide, the cuts go back and end in a radius that leads down to the bottom edge along the rail. On this other type, that line goes straight forward all the way to the muzzle, without the radius cut that goes up above the rail line. This is because it is a 2 piece slide. The spring tunnel is a separate piece, with the slide rails going all the way forward, and the tunnel having been slid into the front and brazed in. If you look closely at the muzzle, you can see the braze line.

I would caution against any welding on the front of these slides, as enough heat will start to melt the braze, and you could weaken the joint. Upon firing, should that joint fail, the slide would come right off the back, unless the bushing was strong enough to keep from being punched out.

If there is enough meat in the slide you might be able to open up the groove wider then weld up the bushing thicker. The bushing should/could be a snug fit in the slide. Make sure the barrel is properly fit to the bushing and in lockup.

Sure, no problem.

Back in the 80s, I briefly owned one of these with the 2-piece slide.

Can someone make a barrel bushing with the locking tab or lug offset a little?