Okay guys and gals (Joni), I've searched and came up with inconclusive information regarding the custom attributes and instruction on this subject.
I am curious of the technique and tools required to perform such a surgical task. I am familiar with fronstrap stipling and checkering prcedures, and the jig's and files are common knowledge. Obviously the files are a requirement but is there a jig for the rear of the slide?
I am seriously considering giving it a try on an old slide, but want to have some insight on it prior to diving in.
I'm not sure if this is correct but I'm under the impression that you clamp some sort of flat surface to the slide to guide the checkering file. A jig shouldn't be necessary, just some sort of hard flat object to clamp to the slide. Without scratching the face of the slide of course.
Never checkered a slide, but have done similar things with hand and abrasive files.
The secret to succes is limiting 2 of the 3 degrees of feedom of the checkering file.
In addition to Toolman's guide/fixture/jig to keep the file cutting across the slide flat at the same angle, you'll also need some way to keep the file parallel to the slide's flat. The jig should have a wood base firmly attached to the bench, slide firmly attached to the base and the file positioning parts firmly attached to the base.
Don't know of a commercial jig - you'll probably have to improvise one.
Never drag the file back across the workpiece. Be meticulous about cleaning the filings out of the file's teeth - after every stroke when getting close to completion.
Write Hill's advice on the back of both hands - one errant stroke with the file can create hours of work!
That's one of the reasons CNC machines were invented. Otherwise, it's a smith's secret.
If you undertake the task, be sure you treat at least one spare extractor at the same time, since you will never get the pattern to match agian.
Not an advised procedure.
Practice on some scrap metal after you purchase the files and jig (if you can't find a jig just make one yourself, if possible). I'd advise you to do it but make sure you practice enough to gain the skills you'll need. It would be a shame to ruin the back of the slide.
Maybe I misunderstood what you meant by the "rear" of the slide. I thought you were referring to the rear portion of the flats on the sides of the slide.
If you meant the aft end where the back ends of the ejector and extractor show, forget all about my post about limiting 2 of the 3 degrees of freedom.
If so, it sounds like a real challenge. Good luck with it.
Just wondering, what's the purpose of the checkering there?
I think it is purely cosmetic but I'm sure someone could justify or invent a reason as to why it is needed. Me thinks it is to collect the hard earned money of the common man. You gotta love these United States... the only place in the world where a man or women can be convinced they need something that is totally cosmetic.
I am currently building a small jig for this and similiar projects. I am going to have to order some new files, as mine are very old ...lol
As for the purpose...
Cosmetic yes. Personal preference yes.
I however will stand by one small fact... as it is with the TOP of the slide, being milled and serrated, the rear also is a place where the sunlight or other (un)natural light can and if given the chance, proper angle, etc. will reflect into the shooter's line... with the sights.
The alternative to serrations/checkering is just roughing it up... but I think it looks better/more professional to do it up nicely.
Preference...
I am sure someone else on here can vouch for such...
Reduce glare is another reason for having checkering there.