Just got a Springer Loaded. Last week I did the Blindhog trigger-job. Results are wonderful. Got rid of all that awful creep.
...But I couldn't leave well-enough alone. I wasn't happy with how much overtravel there was after adjusting the trigger overtravel screw such that the sear didn't rub on the hammer's "safety-stop" (series-80 style hammer). So I adjusted the trigger overtravel-screw for acceptable overtravel (which resulted in sear/safety-stop interference), and then filed and stoned the hammer above the safety-stop (assembling and dissasembling/dykem-marking about 50 times) until the sear didn't rub the safety-stop hook anymore (when the trigger was in the 'pulled' condition). As I'm sure you already guessed, this created a whole new problem because clearancing the hammer reduced the height of the safety-stop hook. The trigger feels exquisite, however I've discovered that the safety-stop notch doesn't engage the sear enough to be effective now. The safety-stop will stop the hammer if engaged gently, but if I pull the hammer back a little and let it fly it will shear right past the safety-stop.
So here are my questions:
1) Will it do any good to cut the safety-stop notch deeper? The hight of the hook has been reduced to probably .010". If I cut it deeper, to say .025" will the sear reach down into the new notch, solving this problem?
2) If this means getting a new hammer, should I get a series-70 style hammer with a true half-cock hook vs. the 'safety-stop' style? Regardless of hammer style, am I going to have to live with trigger overtravel in order to have a functioning half-cock/safety-stop, or can this be worked around, and how?
Howdy messenger. Yes, cutting it deeper will let the sear sit deeper into the notch and stop the hammer fall...but the change in angle may also break the nose of the sear if the hammer falls hard into it. See if Colt will send you a new hammer. Since it's a one for one Colt swap, it may drop in and work.
Valuable lesson there... Never file on the half-cock notch to obtain clearance for the sear, beyond lightly breaking the corne if there's a sharp edge or burr. Be happy with the overtravel that you get with the screw. There's also a built-in overtravel stop in the grip safety. Dinkin' around with the design to limit it even further can cause some problems.
To follow-up: Last night I worked on the hammer again. I filed and stoned the safety-stop to about .035 deep and adjusted it for good interface with the sear tip that shouldn't slip. I did this by putting the sear and hammer in their pins on the outside of the frame and checking the interface as I worked. The safety-stop now functions as it should and I'm happy with how all the fire-controlls work now. I'll keep and eye on things though. Thanks again.
Some pistols come with a half cock that does not capture the sear. Meaning that after pistol goes to half cock pulling the trigger will drop the hammer the rest of the way. No big deal as there is not supposed to be enough energy to ignite round. You can look at a hammer and see if it has a captured or uncaptured half cock ledge by just looking at it. Chances are your hammer never had a captured half-cock ledge so dont sweat it as long as it captures the hammer when your finger is not on the trigger when easing down the hammer with your thumb.
You are right. The Springers come with a series-80 style hammer that just has a safety-stop rather than a captive half-cock. When I had clearanced the hammer to eliminate sear interference I reduced the height of the safety-stop notch enough that the sear would slip off of it (trigger not pulled). Now that I have cut the safety-stop notch deeper it is working correctly, but to be honest I still like the idea of a true half-cock notch better. I just can't see the benefit of the safety-stop vs. the older style true half-cock hook and I've seriously considered changing hammers to that style. Any thoughts on this? The series-70 style hammer with captive half-cock just seems like it would be more effective. It would seem that it would have a tendency to be effective even if a good chunk of the sear broke off, where as with the series-80 style even a small deformation or chipping of the sear could render the safety-stop ineffective. I admit that I don't know much about this though. I'd appreciate your comments.
OK I copy now your half cock was not working at all after it was filed down slightly. I personally do not like the non captive style hammers myself and prefer the captive style. You could probably shape the half-cock with a file so it is captive either that or get a McCormick hammer, there only about $20 or so and I beleive they have a captured half-cock. Dont quote me on that though as my hammers are down in my workshop, but I can take a look tommorow if you like and let you know.