Someone just gave me a MAPP gas torch so I can use high tempature silver solders and such... my question is can I use high temp. silver solders to fill in the rails then remachine (you know the kind that is used to permently weld muzzle brakes onto an AR barrel...) is it really tricky to use? am I better off using low temp. solders instead? I know I can peen it but I am just exploring other alternatives to fix mistakes...
Actually I read a post awhile back at another forum about high temp siver soldering. A correctly bonded silver solder joint is actually stonger than the metals being bonded. Thought about rather than peening and beating on the rails to tighten up a loose gun or installing accu-rails. One could machine the old frame rails away and attach new over sized rail inserts to the frame with silver solder and machine to fit. Don't think trying to use silver solder as filler material would work. Another trick I have seen done for shafts on rotating machinery is metalizing powder. They heat the worn shaft with a torch nice and red and poof it with metalizing powder while slowly rotating it. Once they get enough build up let it cool at the proper rate for the right temper they turn it back down in the lathe. I like the silver soldered insert idea better for a 1911.
Actually ociebell your idea is similar to one I have been thinking about for awhile and that is to mill off the top of the frame and rail. Next silver solder a plate slightly thicker than the rail you want then mill the opening for the mag well, ramp and drill disconnector hole. It would be time consuming but should hold up quite nicely and look good to boot. I have been meaning to do this one day but have never run across a frame boogered up enough to try it.
I've been thinking about something similar with a steel "top end" for an aluminum frame for a 1911. I don't think one can silver-solder steel to aluminum, so a more mechanical method of attaching the "wear parts" to the aluminum lower portion of the receiver would be required. Basically, I want an aluminum-weight carry gun without the quick wear it's going to experience.
I wonder if it's possible to get your hands on the top part of a Streyer-Tripp composite/polymer frame. They do the same thing you're suggesting, with polymer rather than aluminum.
I kinda doubt they'd sell that item all by itself as I inquired about buying one of their interchangeable breech face inserts without buying the whole slide. They would'nt sell them that way.
Since I've built 1911's that grouped sub 3" without tightening the slide at all, and since the AMU armorers agree that slide fit accounts for at most 10% of any accuracy gains, this is a LOT of work, for nothing much in the way of gains. One slide rail bar, and some feeler gauges as shims, squeezing the slide in a vise, is all that the old timers ever had to have, in order to get 2" guns at 50 yds, and a lot of match ammo won't group that well. Did you guys know that? No full charge ammo can be relied upon for better than 3" groups at 50 yds. So what is the point of tightening up a gun so much? It just adds to the reliability problems.
You are talking about horizontal play, I believe that is good for function and reliability. What about excessive vertical play?
I've been aware of the fact that a loose slide isn't that big of deal, although. My Chip McCormick gun locks up like a vault and and just plain feels better than other loosey goosey Colts I have. A little wobble is OK but a 16th of an inch side to side seems a little clunky to me.
Since I've built 1911's that grouped sub 3" without tightening the slide at all, and since the AMU armorers agree that slide fit accounts for at most 10 % of any accuracy gains, this is a LOT of work, for nothing much in the way of gains. Actually I saw nothing in this thread that would lead one to beleive that anyone was talking about tweaking a frames rail for accuracy. The author brought this up as an alternative to fix mistakes. Most here either have or will make a 80% frame. Ulfrikr I think you have something there, I would love to see a version of a aluminum frame with steel rails. I think it would do quite well on the market also.
Aluminum frame with steel rails = Krieger AccuRails
Only problem with Accurails is they are not quite as permanent as I would like. Plus I do not know if they can be purchased for do it yourselfers. I have never seen one in person yet but I beleive that they tend to fall off when removing the top end. Anyone seen these in person yet and how easily do they remove? I would like to see a rail system that is permanent to semi permanent.
I don't believe that they sell them for DIY'ers. I'm also fairly certain that you are correct that they come out easily, but my guess is that if you really wanted them to be semi permanent they could be silver soldered in place.
i actually though about this some time ago when i can across a frame with no rails or room to mill any rails what abotu a thin piece of steel that would be pinned or have small bolts counterset woudl that work???
leftyo:
Your right it would not be hard to make them permanent if you had a mind to.
Gunman:
I do not beleive there is enough room for several countersunk bolts to bolt
the top rail on but I think silver soldering the top on would work quite well.
I also know it would be more than strong enough as many of my carbide insert
tools are carbide inserts silver soldered onto a steel shank. And I know these
tools would see more stress and heat than a top end of a 1911. Now all I need
is a trashed frame to experiment on. Once