I recently got a Taurus PT1911 and was showing it to my uncle. He mentioned several things I should do for it before even firing it, like complete dissassembly, cleaning, and relubrication, getting rubber grips (that may be a user's opinion, but rubber will probably be better than the plastic ones on it now!), and he also suggested opening up the ejection port.
My dad has a machine shop and I can do the work easily, but my problem is that Taurus decided that my slide needed a serial number and that the best place for it is right below the ejection port. Do I get away with machining the serial numbers off the slide (the numbers are also on the frame and barrel), or do I need to leave the slide stock?
Isn't the ejection port already lowered and flared on the PT1911? I would suggest to fire the gun first. If it has any problems, then you can start messing with it. If it works (as they say) don't fix it.
Unless you bought an older model, that I am unaware of. The PT 1911 comes equipped with rubber grip panels and a lowered and flared ejection port.
As John related, fire the gun first! prior to deciding on any upgrades. My Uncle taught me many years ago. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
FWIW, the distance from the bottom of the slide up to the bottom edge of of the ejection port on a:
* USGI slide is about 0.61"
* Colt Gold Cup is about 0.46"
What's the distance on yours?
A serial number on the slide? The frame is the "gun", and the slide is merely a gun part, so grind away, but, as already noted, the slide wall height is probably already in the .45"-.47" range, which IS lowered.
Serial numbers on the exterior of the slide, frame, and barrel, and unlowered ejection port? Sounds more like a Sistema than a Taurus!
I will definitely run some rounds through it before i modify it, that was my plan before hand any ways. I had meant to say my uncle told me to clean it before firing it. He made the suggestion to lower it, but said I should run some rounds through it to see if it was going to damage brass first.
To answer your question, niemi24s, mine measures .494 from the bottom of the slide to the bottom of the ejection port.
Rich, it may be a bit older gun; the serial number starts with NAV. I think it was new when I got it, but who knows how long the dealer I got it from had it before selling it. As for the grips, they are most definitely plastic, but according to numbers, maybe my ejection port is already lowered?
Again, Thanks for all the replies everybody! I will be running some ammo through it to see if anything needs to be modified first. I haven't even fired it yet... although I did pick up another 100 rounds today. After that I'll check on local laws and go from there! Thanks for all the help.
Your ejection port should be fine. Fire away and let us know how it works.
Don't touch the ejection port. Maybe your uncle meant that you should relieve the rear of the port, in the currently fashionable 'teardrop' pattern, to save your brass? I think some of the earlier PTs had a somewhat less pronounced version than others.
A 'smith at Brownells told me it wasn't wise to lower the port on an older slide below the Gold Cup height of 0.462", so you're only about 0.030" away from that - not enough to even bother with, IMHO.
My Taurus prefix is close to yours and the ejection port is lowered and the teardrop cut is there. Taurus also has an extended extractor.
In my opinion you should completely strip and clean everything in the frame. I found small chips and crud as well as several areas that had burrs that I fixed. Cleaning will eliminate the posibility of gouging up the control surfaces. When you decide on grips replace the grip screws as they are a bit soft and the internal wrenching interface is not very deep. After polishing all the mating/moving surfaces with denim and Flitz, it works smoothly and has yet to fail to feed and I use mine in IDPA with SWC reloads. I'm very happy with mine, so go enjoy a good shooting gun at a reasonable price.
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...and he also suggested opening up the ejection port.
And how many countless thousands of M1911 and M1911A1 pistols were produced and have no problems ejecting spent brass without a lowered/flared ejection port?
I had a new Colt 70 Series reproduction that flung the brass into my face and off the top of my noggin.
I got help here to shape the ejector AFTER I went through 2 ejectors and 2 extractors.
But the darn thing still dented the case mouths - I lowered the ejection port to .50" and dented brass is so infrequent and slight you have to examine a bunch to find a mark.
Through my trials with this gun I was always envious of those who posted how their unmodified 1911 ejected perfect.
After reading posts on the 1911 forums I wonder how many countless thousands of 1911s have stove pipe jams and fling brass places other than where the shooter would prefer.
In my club, those who have to rent range guns that show up late for matches are punished by having to rent the last of several Glocks in the club - which is the best gun ever when it comes to teaching the value of a strong grip - and shooting glasses. The slightest amount of limpwristing and the brass flies square in your face!
My home-built has a 1940's Colt Brazilian export slide with a 'normal' (?) ejection port. I've had no problems whatsoever with the brass coming out. Luck (?), outstanding workmanship (?) I'll go with LUCK.
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I wanted to report on how my Taurus performed today. Of 32 rounds fired, I lost one and one got dented, all the others were just fine, maybe a slight bit out of round. I was firing inside an uncle's barn, and he had quite a bit of junk sitting around, so I think the one round that was dented hit something hard, as it has two dents in it (I would think hitting the ejection port somewhere would only put one in it?). Time will tell, but for now, I believe I will be leaving the ejection port alone.