I've had an Auto Ordinance 1911A1 GI for a while. I bought it with the intentions of doing some work to it, but it's sat around for a while. Under rapid fire it would stovepipe occasionally, I put a bit more tension on the extractor and that cured that, but I had wanted to lower the port anyways. In my mind it does give the spent case more of a chance of clearing the port and not stovepiping. Every discussion I found on the subject, there were those who said it did help out, and the ones who said that it didn't. Well today I decided to just go ahead and give it a try. I first scribed on the slide a line that was .450 up from the bottom of the slide, I had help measureing :)
After that I clamped it in my rinky dink vise, I used a 123 block on the back as the vise jaws wern't tall enough. A blue shop towel was used to protect the surface of the slide from marring.
Then it was just a matter of using the 3/8 carbide endmill and cutting away up to the scribed line. Here it is out of the mill.
I then beveled the inside edge with a stone in my dremel. After the machine work the cuts were bare steel and needed to be covered. Here's the tools for that job.
Make sure to squeeze the excess cold blue from the Q-Tip as you don't want any dripping where is doesn't belong. I just rubbed it on the bare steel, then used a paper towel to "card" it. After a few applications of the cold blue on the Q-Tip it was looking pretty dang well. Here it is all put back together.
All in all not too hard of a job, I didn't flare the rear of the port, but I'm going to shoot it and see how it performs, If I have to I will, but I like the look of it right now. I'll report back, I'll be taking it to the range next weekend. As soon as I get money ahead I'm going to buy the cutter to do Novak sight cuts and get a good set of sights on this thing as well. Speaking of money, I also plan to fit a Kart barrel as well, but that's going to have to wait for a bit. Thanks for watching folks