Kimber Extractor probelm/no probelm?

original: forum.m1911.org
Retrieved: November 09, 2011
Last Post: September 16, 2011

paleojack
14th September 2011

I have a Kimber Crimson Ultra Carry II along with my original 70 series Colt. I have been reading and tinkering with the Colt based upon information in the two books by Kuleck. My most recent work on the Colt was to install an oversized firing pin stop as the original had some play. That worked quite well.

My question relates to the Kimber. I took a look at it and the FPS is terribly loose and will rotate around the FP easily. The extractor is quite easy to rotate as well because of this. Functionally the psitol works fine - no feed or ejection problems. Should I leave well enough alone or should I get an oversized FPS for this one too. By the way, this is my carry piece.


Alland
14th September 2011

I would fit an oversize FPS in the Kimber also.


wjkuleck
14th September 2011

Quote:
I took a look at it and the FPS is terribly loose and will rotate around the FP easily. The extractor is quite easy to rotate as well because of this. Functionally the psitol works fine - no feed or ejection problems. Should I leave well enough alone or should I get an oversized FPS for this one too. By the way, this is my carry piece.

Man, that's a tough decision. On the one hand, I'm a firm believer in the old New Englander dictum: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

On the other hand, if the extractor can rotate, it has the potential to one day rotate just the right way to cause a malfunction.

Since this is a carry gun, I'd go ahead and fit the FPS. If, after extensive trials, the pistol does not function as well with the new FPS, you can always go back.


CAWalter
14th September 2011

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is the slogan of the complacent, the arrogant or the scared. It's an excuse for inaction, a call to non-arms. - Colin Powell

Please change the Kimber firing pin stop as the one Kimber uses is actually a Series 80 type stop and the clearance cut on the right side meant for the Series 80 plunger lever creates a square hole directly inline with the push rod. This can really damage the push rod or tie up the slide when assembling or field stripping. Use the Series 70 style stop and the hole will be blocked and flush in the slide. This is in addition to the improved extractor holding, and added slide resistance.


paleojack
15th September 2011

Cawalter, I removed the series 80 style FPS as you suggested. I tried the series 70 FPS that I had removed from my Colt. This one fit snug in the Kimber and took care of the slop in the FPS and the rotation of the extractor. I will give it a try at the range within the next week.

Using this series 70 FPS made reassembly a bit more tricky as it wanted to hang up on the FP saftety plunger. I needed "to hold my mouth right" to get it back together.


CAWalter
15th September 2011

Quote:
Cawalter, I removed the series 80 style FPS as you suggested. I tried the series 70 FPS that I had removed from my Colt. This one fit snug in the Kimber and took care of the slop in the FPS and the rotation of the extractor. I will give it a try at the range within the next week.

Using this series 70 FPS made reassembly a bit more tricky as it wanted to hang up on the FP saftety plunger. I needed "to hold my mouth right" to get it back together.

I believe you may be referring to the push rod, the firing pin safety plunger is in the slide. Here's a picture of the EGW square bottom stop next to the one Kimber uses in two Kimber slides. If the stop you have substituted hangs below the slide it should be fitted to be flush.


paleojack
15th September 2011

CAWalter, Ah ha! You have caught me and exposed my inexperience with the Kimber. It has extra safety parts that my Colt does not and I'm unfamiliar with the terminology. Your photos helped.

I checked the FPS and it was proud of the slide so I stoned it to be flush as you directed. That should be fixed properly now. Everything reassembled smoothly. Thanks for your help on this and your patience with a newbie.

The thing I originally thought the slide was hanging on is a protruding pin just to the side of the disconnector in the frame. I presume it is part of the safety system and again I don't know what it is called.


CAWalter
15th September 2011

Quote:
CAWalter, Ah ha! You have caught me and exposed my inexperience with the Kimber. It has extra safety parts that my Colt does not and I'm unfamiliar with the terminology. Your photos helped.

I checked the FPS and it was proud of the slide so I stoned it to be flush as you directed. That should be fixed properly now. Everything reassembled smoothly. Thanks for your help on this and your patience with a newbie.

The thing I originally thought the slide was hanging on is a protruding pin just to the side of the disconnector in the frame. I presume it is part of the safety system and again I don't know what it is called.

The term for that part is the "push rod" and is activated by the grip safety, hence the warning to not depress the grip safety when removing, or installing the slide.


casemouth
16th September 2011

If a FPS isn't flush (specifically, if it's under-flush) what type of a problem can it cause? I can see stoning it down if it is standing proud but if it's a little shy the other way what harm can it cause?


niemi24s
16th September 2011 My theory would be that if the corner radius was the same, raising it up would give the slide/FPS more of a mechanical advantage over the hammer/mainspring and thus reduce the effect of the new-fangled FPS. If the stop wasn't too terribly short (or the aft end of the FP tunnel wasn't too terribly high) I'd think a smaller corner radius - or no radius at all - could restore the mechanical advantage.

But that's just a guess on my part. Maybe CAW or someone else knows for sure.


paleojack
16th September 2011

I have just returned from the range to try out the installation of the series 70 style FPS to my Kimber.

I put 100 rounds through and everything functioned perfectly. I did note one change though - no dinged case mouths. The last time I shot I had some case mouth dings similar to the ones I get on my unmodified series 70 Colt. The Kimber has the lowered and flared ejection port so I didn't think I would get that kind of case damage. Apparently, fixing the loose FPS and preventing clocking of the extractor has made this improvement.


casemouth
16th September 2011

It could also be (if you only broke the bottom edge of the FPS instead of the heavy radius usually found on most guns) that it slowed the slide momentum down a bit. Maybe the dings were caused by short-stroking? Just a thought.


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