When I lock the slide back, and use a small wooden dowel to push the firing pin until it is stopped by the firing pin block, I can see that the firing pin DOES extend very slightly past the firewall. The amount or protrusion is very small ... probably about half the diameter of the firing pin hole. I would think that a firing pin block should not allow ANY protrusion at all, in order to be certain that the primer couldn't possibly be fired with the firing pin block engaged. Is my firing pin slightly longer than it should be?
What make of pistol is this? Have you removed the firing pin and firing pin plunger to see if either or both are damaged? Are you certain this is the original firing pin? One brand (I'm having difficulty recalling which one, but I think S&W) has the plunger notch in the firing pin in a different place that that set by the "Colt Series 80 Standard."
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What make of pistol is this?
It's a brand-new Kimber Custom II 10mm, bought NIB this September 3, with only about 100 rounds fired through it so far. (It has the Schwarz-type FPB activated by the grip safely, not the trigger).
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Have you removed the firing pin and firing pin plunger to see if either or
both are damaged?
No ... I'm still in the newbie stage where it seems like a miracle when I've succeeded in just field-striping it, cleaning it, and somehow getting it back together again. And since I'm a newbie, I probably wouldn't know damage even if I saw it.
It may be appropriate to consult with Kimber on the matter before taking measures on one's own.
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It may be appropriate to consult with Kimber on the matter before taking
measures on one's own.
I DID call them this morning, about that question and also about some other problems and questions I had. As far as the firing pin question goes, they said the protrusion wasn't enough to fire the primer. But I'd still like to know if other people have seen ANY protrusion of the firing pin on their guns. And if anyone has ever done any tests to confirm that such a small protrusion can't fire the primer, I'd sure like to know about it. If I had a way to reload for 10mm, I'd load a bunch of cartridges with only a primer (no powder, and no bullet), and see if I could get one to fire with the grip safety engaged ... I guess I'd have to first grip the safety, hold the hammer, pull and hold the trigger, release the grip, and then manually let the hammer fall. Anyone ever try that?
If I can't confirm that the FPB does guarantee that the primer can't be fired, can a gunsmith shorten my firing pin, by removing a little material at the tip? (I might need to get a gunsmith to lighten my trigger a bit anyway, if it doesn't get any lighter during the break-in period ... it's definitely heaver than I expected it to be).
I would have to imagine that any amount of the firing pin protruding from the breech face could result in discharge.
If it were my pistol I would hold Kimber responsible for repairing the safety. If something were to happen and that safety failed it could result in bigger problems.
test with just primer
You should be able to work a bullet out of a factory load with your hands. Wouldn't use pliers or vises on brass. Properly dispose of the powder, and end up with just the primered case for your test.
Thanks for that tip ... I guess autoloader rounds must not be crimped nearly as tightly as revolver rounds ... bullet-pull probably isn't a concern I guess, because the extra cartridges are contained in the mag.
I have wondered, though, if I'd damage anything if I tried to drop the slide on a case with no bullet. And I don't think I should just insert the case into the chamber, because my manual says the extractor can be damaged as it tries to ride over the rim. How would you do it?
I would try and "ride the slide" slowly work the slide and manually load it from the magazine.
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I would have to imagine that any amount of the firing pin protruding from
the breech face could result in discharge.
If it were my pistol I would hold Kimber responsible for repairing the safety. If something were to happen and that safety failed it could result in bigger problems.
I agree that the firing pin should not be able to go past the breech face when pushed forward without releasing the firing pin block. The only potential hazard would be a direct muzzle drop from a height sufficient to cause firing pin inertia firing. The small amount yours is protruding when you push it would probably not fire. A non-firing pin block 1911's firing pin is always free to to pass the breech face by nearly a 1/4", and inertia firings are possible, but very rare.
I would recommend you not play with it to see if you can force it to malfunction. You might not like the results.
When you are clambering a round the firing pin block is cleared anyway as you are holding the grip, and depressing the grip safety.
Kalashnikov said, "...it gun, gun dangerous."
I have duplicated what you have said that you did with both my Kimber Custom II and my Kimber Ultra Carry II and while the slide is back even using a small Phillips screwdriver there is no way I can make any of the firing pin protrude like what you are talking about.
Alas, my Kimber is a 1996 Clackamas number, which lacks any of the mod cons.
As for the rarity of dropped pistol discharges, if you do a quick search and review the drop test results posted by Drake Oldham, you may find yourself rethinking the likelihood of such a discharge. I was part of the team performing this research. Frankly, the results were both dismaying and disturbing.
I agree and it is interesting, but wasn't the point of the test to generate an environment that caused a direct muzzle hit every time? So what are you going to do with the Clackmas that doesn't have the block? Could go off, after all it is dismaying, and disturbing.
Most properly set up 1911s will feed an empty case from the mag with no problem.
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Most properly set up 1911's will feed an empty case from the mag with no
problem.
Okay, so now the empty case is in the chamber. In what manner does anyone believe it can be tested without opening the door for potential damage to the pistol. Just pulling the trigger won't do it. Releasing the trigger with the grip safety, and then releasing the grip safety and dropping the trigger won't prove anything. Two ways. Do a set-up as has been done with the pistol guided on a vertical drop on the muzzle. Barrel replacement coming up. Or remove the grip safety and pull the trigger, so the firing pin block isn't cleared, and the hammer smacks the pin which slams the block. Your gun, but I wouldn't even do that to your gun.
Thanks for all the replies ... very helpful. I've decided to NOT try to do any tests myself, because of possible damage from the pin hitting the block. If Kimber won't eliminate the protrusion, I'm going to try to find a gunsmith who can remove a little material from the tip of the firing pin. I think I'm going to want to get my trigger lightened to about 2 lbs anyway, so I can probably get both things done at the same time.
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I agree and it is interesting, but wasn't the point of the test to generate
an environment that caused a direct muzzle hit every time? So what are you
going to do with the Clackmas that doesn't have the block? Could go off, after
all it is dismaying, and disturbing.
If it has to be dropped on the muzzle to get it to fire, then the round goes into the floor. While not a good thing, not exactly the end of the world. I personally am willing to accept that risk.
Some people live in apartments with neighbors underneath ... I understand... but just sayin'.