Maybe youse guys can help me again? I keep breaking the cross-pin that holds in the mainspring housing to the frame. I don't know why. There's no bind I can see anywhere, and I've even shortened the top plunger quite a bit. The bottom pin that looks like a little top is getting pretty beat up on the bottom where it contacts the cross pin (probably why it's breaking, duh), but I don't see why. Using a 23 lb. spring, and it's still breaking. The pin is bent before it breaks. Just broke one last night. WTF?
Interesting problem. Are you using quality pins, like Wilson, Springfield, etc? If you're breaking those, your pistol definitely has some issues. Is this a full size Government/COmmander, or one with a shortened grip frame?
You're lucky it isn't breaking the frame! You must have a very strong frame to be breaking those pins!
Kharn ask a good question is it a Govt. sized frame?
Either way - try a very high quality pin (i.e. Ed Brown, EGW, Wilson, Baer, etc.) as Kharn suggests. Go to a lighter main spring. and go ahead and replace that beat-up ms cap too.
The way those are made the weakest point is right in the middle (where the cap locks it in place) is that where yours are failing? I've bent one on a "hot-rod" that I built way back when, but the frame gave out before the pin broke. this was a mil spec part & failed in the middle. This was due to an overly strong ms spring coupled with a mediocre pin after a few thou. rnds.
One guy told me to replace it with a solid "drill rod" but I just got a Wilson pin lightened the ms spring to 19lb. - has served me well
Keep us posted I'm curious to know who else has had this sort of problem. & how they solve it.
Before you go and put a "high quality" pin in there and break your frame, a couple of thing to check.
1: The length of your hammer strut, without the slide in place and the hammer in the lowered posistion the hammer should just be able to be moved back and forth slightly without spring tension on it, if the hammer is being pushed hard against the frame you have a long/oversize hammer strut which can cause bind when fully cocked.
2: Assemble pistol, ensure its unloaded, rack slide and lock in the rear posisition with slide stop, the hammer should now be resting against the botom of the slide, check that the hammer can be moved by hand even further rearwards, this will tell you if you have reached a mainspring coil bind condition. if the hammer is tight against the slide you have found you problem, shorten the strut/cap/plug until it is not bound and maybe go for a lower power main spring.
3: The design of your hammer may also be a part of this, some "square notch" hammers are longer on the top area than the standard style, if your frame is tight on specs (mainspring housing hole closer to top of frame than standard), you have a long hammer strut, tall hammer etc these can all add up to one problem, it may not just be a single item at fault, but whatever you do check the above before you break your frame.
I am not trained. I have learned the above by using and shooting 1911's for several years, if I missed something out please fell free to tell me.
If you have broken more than one mainspring pin then you have bind somewhere. I would buy the Ed Brown pin kit from Brownells for $14 and use all the pins in it and then get a McCormick hammer strut also. That will probably take care of your problem.
Thanks for the ideas! Been using good pins (Caspian), so I don't think that's the issue. They're bending first, so I'm starting to wonder about the housing itself. I dunno - gonna take it apart today and see. Broke about 3 in the last year, @ 1000 rds a month, so they do last a little while. Weird problem... will keep you all posted!