Gents, some how the firing pin is trapped beyond the firing pin stop (inside the slide but not enough to release the block). And I am not able to depress the firing pin, nor the firing pin block, in order to remove the stop and thus the pin and spring. I tapped on the block with a punch but it's not budging so what's next?
It sounds like the firing pin over extended. If the tip of the firing pin extends in front of the breachface then use a long brass rod extended down the barrel to tap the firing pin back. Use soft metal and don't hit your barrel riffling.
egumpher, the pistol is completely appart and the pin is not everextending from the front. I've tried pushing it but it won't budge so beyond tapping the front of the firing pin and risking damage is there another way to release it?
Is there a firing pin safety plunger to depress?
I`d try soaking it in some WD-40 or Marvel Mystery Oil and see if that helps. May be a bunch of hardened gunk trapping it?. Good Luck!.
I bet your extractor has trapped the firing pin safety plunger and keeps it and the firing pin from moving. Try wiggling the extractor back and forth, and see what happens.
Spiro, I think you're right, and no matter how much I've tried I was unable to move the extractor or the FP. I passed it off to a gunsmith friend of mine so as he can to do his magic on it, lets see if he'll be able to free it all up. See, over the weekend I replaced all the stock springs with aftermarkets, for a lighter trigger pull, and I did notice that the FP spring was quite a bit longer than the original, maybe that's what's causing the anomaly. Anyway, lets hope he is successful tonight...
The GS said that a bit of careful tapping on the FP go it all unstuck. Probable cause is the aftermarket FP spring which was longer. He installed the original spring so I am going back to the stock springs on the rest (recoil, hammer and trigger), and leaving well enough alone from here on.
When you changed springs, did you also change the firing pin safety plunger's spring? If yes, how do the diameters of the old and new springs compare? Either way, make sure the firing pin's tunnel is nice and clean. A short blast with a carburettor cleaner ought to do the trick!
Spyro, I did not change the plunger spring, the kit didn't come with it. I am pretty sure it's clean because it's a new pistol, I've shot maybe 100 rounds through it. My attempt was to tune it to its max potential but I am beginning to realize that this PT likes stock parts. I've heard of another person trying to utilize Wilson parts in a PT with little success.
Ah OK, I asked because spring kits often include lighter-than-normal plunger springs, as a (vain) attempt to reduce trigger pull weight - the poor little spring only adds about 1/4lb to the pull. As for the gun being new... I've never seen what a new Taurus looks like, but make sure there no grease anywhere on the pistol. Some overseas makers like to give new guns an overzealous coat of the stuff, as an extra means of protection during the long trip.
You do not reduce trigger pull weight by changing springs. Find the article entitled "The poor man's trigger job" and do it. Guaranteed results with no alteration to the dynamics of the pistol.
I do know you don't reduce trigger pull by replacing springs alone. As a matter of fact I polished all sear/hammer/trigger bow contact surfaces prior to. By polishing I was able to eliminate creep, for the most part, and drop the trigger pull weight to 3.5lbs by adjusting the sear and trigger springs. I'm still not happy as my National Match's trigger is 1lb better yet and smoother! So I replaced the springs on the PT in hope of improvement. Matter of fact I tried to replace the sear and hammer but both of these aftermarket parts didn't properly fit the pistol so it made things worst. Anyway, I appreciate the link, I'll review and implement.