My firing pin won't fit in my firing pin hole on my new Caspian slide. I measured the pin, and it specs out right. It DOES fit in my P14, though it doesn't seem interface with the P14s firing pin stop. (of course) The P14 pin is also too big for the Caspian slide. Does Caspian do this on purpose for me to finish ream the firing pin hole or is something wrong? I haven't a gauge pin at home so I can't gauge the hole till tomorrow, but it seems fairly small. Perhaps half of what it should be to accomodate the firing pin tip.
What sort of Caspian slide and what sort of firing pin are you dealing with?
Is this, perhaps, a 9mm or .38Super slide?
The 9mm/38Super firing pin is smaller in diameter than the standard 45ACP firing pin and, therefore, the firing pin hole in a 9mm/38Super slide is likewise smaller, in diameter, than it is is in a 45ACP slide.
Thanks dropbombnow. I was told that all Caspians ship with the 38 super hole, so I guess you just ream it out if you want to use a .45 pin. Doesn't sound too hard.
I built a 1911 a while back using the Caspian slide, and you are correct, mine came with the 38 super firing pin hole diameter as well. It was explained to me that using the smaller diameter hole and firing pin helps prevent primer extrusion/flow into the firing pin hole with hotter 45ACP loads.
Should I read that as "use a .38 firing pin even tho its a .45"? I guess that makes sense.
Yes, it has a .38/9mm firing pin hole as do all new Caspian slides now-a- days. The reason for this is as stated above - to prevent primer flow. Springfield Armory and Ed Brown do this too. It's a good thing so go with it. Use the 9mm firing pin in that slide and enjoy!
Cool, firing pin ordered! Now if I can just get the bbl bushing to go in... I also ordered bushing wrench. I assume I just work it back and forth with this until it fits? Do I use lapping compound? I already tried coloring the bushing lug with a marker and pushing it as far into the slide as I can to see where the marker rubs off, indicating where it is binding. But, none of the marker ever comes off. It wipes right off with my finger though, so I am led to believe that it is not in contact with anything. But... it must be right? If I drive the bushing all the way around with a rubber mallet I can get it a fair way up into the lug recess. Far enough to assemble the weapon, but I think I should be able to do this by hand.
Sounds like you have an oversize or "match" bushing most likely the nub is too big and needs to be filed in some area- check with the marker in that area. A tight fit is good for accuracy! - file on the bushing not the slide
Just to be sure - you do have the correct bushing for that slide: if you have a short slide make sure you have the correct size bushing
Haha, no I am not sure I have the correct bushing. I mean, with a hard rubber mallet I can get it to swing in, and when in that possition everything seems to be supper snug, I just want to loosen it up a bit. I'm not trying to build a match gun so I would like to be able to field strip without driving the bushing around. I have allready taken a fair amount of height off of the lug. I'm pretty sure it just needs some more "persuading." Thanks for the advice TX. Ill work on it.
You shouldn't really be filing off materal from the locking tab. You want to fit the bushing OD to the slide ID. You can use needle files or other sanding methods to get the bushing close. Once you can get it in and need to turn it, take it out and slather the inside there wth JB Bore compound and oil and lap the bushing to slide. That should seat the locking tab on its own through lapping, heat and a little muscle. If anything you need to take the top edge down a bit from the tab. The more material on the tab as it sets in the lide groove, the better.
Get yourself a bushing wrench to turn the tight bushing in the slide when you lap.
I had a feeling I should not be filling the lug so much. I thought it wasnt the lug, but the bushing goes down in its hole in the slide, just wont turn round, so I figured the OD/ID fit between the bushing and the slide were ok, otherwise it wouldnt even go down in the hole. Anyways, I will try lapping it as soon as I get home.
He said he wants to be able to strip the gun with no tools and not a match fit. I told him the most likely place to look to solve his problem as I have run into the exact same with a few different 1911s.
Lapping is not a bad idea but you will remove material from the slide and the bushing and match that bushing to that slide if you don't mind that. Either way you are still removing material from that lug but with lapping you will also scrape at that channel in the slide at the same time. and make sure you clean that stuff very thoroughly as soon as you have the fit you like - that stuff can embed in there and continue to lap during normal use of the gun - getting the non-embedding compound makes that easier. I just wanted you to know before you jumped in
Well the bushing needs to turn in there. And most likely, the slide and/or the bushing aren't perfectly round so they'll need to be fit to each other. Lapping allows the two to be fit to each other's imperfections. From there you can make it looser. But you still need to fit the two or it'll never turn until you got the thing so loose it'll giggle inside.
TX400cb1911; gotcha. make sure to take any lapping compound off or it will continue to lap itself out of spec during use.
JB bore is pretty good and is a non-embedding compound. I lapped my bushing with it and Hoppe's Oil. Like mentioned, clean it up well, I used Hoppe's solvent on everything.
Here is what Ive got so far guys. I think it will turn out a handsome pistol. New problem: The upward pressure on the disconector is great enough that I have to smack the slide to get it go back into battery. Also, when I drop the hammer slowly, it gets "stuck." I thought it might be the half cock but the trigger is fully pulled. If this is normal feel free to yell at me. Also, the grip saftey gets stuck in the frame, but I doubt its the frame its catching on. When I pull back slightly on the hammer, the grip saftey goes back, the hammer rests normally, and everything pretty much "resets"
I'll play around and see what I can do. Thanks for your input guys. It has helped.
What is the condition of the sear spring?
Used, parts pin part from a friend. Could see if changing it makes a difference. Probably a good idea.
I'm not real sure where to start checking for ignition problems, so I'd pretty much go through everything.
For the grip safety, check that it and the trigger bow are interacting correctly. That you have enough clearance when you depress the safety and enough contact between them for stop.
On the dragging hammer, check the hammer strut for straightness and the pin that it is set far enough in.
Sear. Check that it is long enough and all contact surfaces are smooth and even (with the hammer and sear spring and disconnector).
Sear spring, check that it has proper tension on each leaf. Then be sure that it is installed correctly. If a leg slips underneath anything when you're putting it together, it makes things bind up.
On the slide, polish the disconnector track underneath there. That will just facilitate the disconnector sliding smoothly against it.
Yay! Finished. Thanks a lot guys. You really helped out a lot.
All the problems I was having seemed to have worked themselves out after a 100 rounds. It feels good to have built it myself, even though I'm sure I could have gotten a better one of the shelf for the money.