I recently put a flat MSH on a Norinco 1911 .45 - using the mainspring in the old curved MSH. Before, I had a nice crisp trigger pull. Since then, the trigger pull is definitely heavier and the hammer takes more effort to cock. Should I replace the mainspring or adjust the trigger? Any easy (or rather foolproof) way to do the latter?
try taking the two housings and comparing the main spring holes... checking both dia. and depth. there's no reason at all that just changing the housing would effect anything at all unless either the spring is binding or the hole is shallower.
Sifu, Tim has the right answer. He has a lot of good info but he's been banned because of language and a hostile attitude.
If the hammer is harder to cock that indicates there is more mainspring pressure. The hole may be a bit smaller in diameter causing a bind on the plug or the hole may be shorter causing more mainspring tension.
There shouldn't be that much more tension on the trigger unless the housing is a bit thicker towards the sear spring, if it's thicker there this would give you the effect of more sear spring tension.
But, more mainspring tension may cause the effect of a heavier trigger by putting more pressure on the engagement between the hammer and sear.
I swapped back and forth between a flat and arched mainspring housing on my Charles Daly and didn't experience and change in trigger or hammer. Also I put a Brown's Bobtail on my Commander with no change.
quote:
recently put a flat MSH on a Norinco 1911 .45 - using the mainspring in the
old curved MSH. Before, I had a nice crisp trigger pull. Since then, the
trigger pull is definitely heavier and the hammer takes more effort to
cock.
No problem just adjust the sear spring to accomadate your new MS housing. Many things could be causing this dilemma. But to fix readjust sear spring and if necessary replace mainspring spring with an 18lber. ALso ensure your hammer strut is not binding on the backside of the beavertail or the opening of the top of the new mainspring housing. YEs I have seen this happen. It will be easy to see if this is happening as finish will be removed from hammer strut if it is a blued unit. File off offending material and re-assemble.
The mainspring could just be stronger-longer, guys. Are you sure you didn't put in a different spring? Compare the two. Also, compare how much resistance you feel when you slip either of the MSH's into the frame. If one shows more resistance, then it's pressing harder on the sear spring, which increases trigger pull, and accentuates any less than perfect engagement of the sear and hammer. In other words, you might not be able to notic a "creepy" trigger pull with lesser spring tension. Also, it's possible that the MSH or its parts are burred, rusted, mismade, etc, causing a "dragging" effect on the parts as they move. Did you also change the hammer strut, or the grip safety, by any chance? A longer or shorter strut can effect the mainspring tension, and a strut can be impacting the grip safety, too.