I've picked up the final piece that I need to complete the project, a craftsman/dremel routing table. Now all I need to do is measure 4 times cut/drill once. Just want to double check before I start, but can someone verify these diameters for holes that need to be drilled...
MSH pin hole .157in +/- .002
Plunger tube holes .101in (3/32)
Extractor holes
Front .125in dia and .350in deep
Rear .093in dia and .120in deep
hole in the slide channel .062in (what is this for again?)
The only hole I don't have any measurements for is the one on the centerline of the top of the frame. What angle does that need to be drilled at and size does that hole need to be? Is it 7/32in dia and 3/16in deep drilled at 5degrees off of top of the frame?
Also what is the tap that I need for the grip brushings?
K1, from the prints I gave you:
MSH pin hole .157in +/- .002 .156
Plunger tube holes .101in (3/32) .101 each
Extractor holes
Front .125in dia and .350in deep .120--.350 deep
Rear .093in dia and .120in deep .093--.120 deep
Hole in the slide channel .062in (what is this for again?) .062 (this is the ejector retaining pin
The only hole I don't have any measurements for is the one on the centerline of the top of the frame. What angle does that need to be drilled at and size does that hole need to be? Is it 7/32in dia and 3/16in deep drilled at 5degrees off of top of the frame?
This is the hole for the disconnector, and gets drilled at 5 degrees from vertical towards the front. Drill through at .160, and counterbore at .187 from underside to within .125 of the top plane.(counterbore is done through magwell.)
Well I jumped in and drilled the plunger tube holes on two of the frames I have. It undersized them and filed the holes by hand till the plunger tube was a tight fit. I alternated between the two frames with filing away metal to try to fit the parts in. On one frame I have the trigger, hammer, grip safety, slide stop, plunger tube, and barrel in on the frame. On the other frame using the same parts I only have the grip safety, plunger tube and slide stop in. I've not bothered to fit the parts yet since I'm just trying to get the frames drilled and ready to accept parts which is proving to be a PITA.
I realize now that the one frame that I managed to file away at and got the barrel to fit in, it will need to have about .1in shaved off of the top of it and possibly more so that the feed ramp on the barrel will be above the frame. I'm going to put it on a belt sander to see if I can grind that down quickly and more efficiently than trying to file it by hand, something that I wouldn't want to take on.
I still have a long way to go, and have a lot of potential areas where I can still screw up. But for less than 5hrs of work in so far, I can't complain with what I've accomplished. Seeing as it is now 4:25AM this young buck is calling it quits for an hour or so to get some rest. Hopefully my back won't be to sore in the morning from standing hunched over and filing. I need to make an early morning run to the hardware store and buy some new files. As cool as it would be to complete this project using all of my grandpa's old files, they're just to dull and old to be up to the task. I was pleasantly surprised though that my father's Shopsmith was able to drill right through the frames with no problems what so ever.
Extractor pins SUCK! I broke a bit in the frame and I cannot get it out. I tried to do the front extractor cut to see if I could cut through it and no dice so far. I have about another 1/8in at most. I stuck a smaller drill bit in the hole and used it as a comparison to the side of the frame to see my progress. It appears to be almost all the way through, yet I've not gotten any more perceivable movement in depth. I'm half tempted to cut the extractors front leg down to size and just use epoxy, locktite, or JB weld to hold it in place. If anyone has any ideas for how to cut through a hardened steel drill bit I could really use the help.
eh bad news... it ended up going askew off of the drill bit in there and drilled off on an angle... so I'm just going to have to modify the ejector to get it to fit.
Modify ejector leg and insert with red loctite and you should be fine.
Ain't the end of the world and easily overcome.
Keep up the work.
What a fun Christmas you had. I about to drill the holes in my sarco and from John Brownings Blue print I cannot figure out the exact position of the disconnecter hole in the top of the frame. Can someone give me that position?
Thanks blindhog, i got the idea from you actually. I'm still unsure how to cut the MSH slots without the aid of a mill, I might have to go old school and do part of it by hand with needle files :( . I've stopped filing out the groove for the barrel to sit in on the top of the frame. I don't know how much more material needs to be taken off, but I can now pivot the barrel on the locking lug, how much it needs to I don't really know but I can always remove more material but I can't add it back easily. I actually made another oops on that frame and accidentilly drilled all the way through on the 2nd ejector leg. Oh well guess I lightened up the frame 1/10000 of an ounce.
Another question for anyone who might know... how detrimental will it be if I drilled the ejector hole at .187" all the way through instead of doing it at .160" and counter boring from the back to .187" to within .125" of the top? I don't know if my drill press will be able to get into that spot to counter bore effectively yet. I still have no idea how I'm going to accurately hold the frame at a 5degree angle yet either. I'll have to make a jig of some sorts I think.
Bullpuppy, it's 5degress off center of the top of the frame (angle looks like this \ if you're looking at the left side of the frame). As for it's exact location check this diagram for it's location in reference to the locking lug.
It's right in the middle of the top of the frame .294" from the frames top edge and 2.500in back from the center of the locking lug hole.
I also started working on my other frame a bit more last night. I can't get the mag to drop free, it fits really tightly into the mag well but I have to apply hand pressure to get it to seat. I don't know where it's binding up at, I've tried filing the front, sides and the back with no additional perceivable movement. Is there something I can coat the inside of the frame with that will rub off when I insert the mag to see where it's dragging? This guessing game is driving me nuts.
Coat the whole magazine with black marker, put inside of frame and remove several times. You should get an idea where its tight after that as it will remove black marker on the magazine in the area where it is tight. If you lucky it will transfer black to the high spots also.
You mention drilling the ejector hole, do you mean the disconnector hole.
If so and you drilled the hole too big just silver solder a bushing in it that is .160Id and .187 OD and .125 long. Should work and put you back in business. Or you could make it .001 over and press it in with some red loctite.
Well the drilling is the easy part... took me very little time. I probably spent 10x the amount of time measuring and double checking instead of just punching and drilling it after the 2nd check. Filling was needed to debur holes as well as allow for parts to fit (for me the biggest PITA was the barrel link pin, that sucker needed to be opened up 2/1000 of an inch on each side, dremel tool helped out and I finished with hand files). I think I might need to contract out a shop or someone to help me cut the MSH slots, they're the last thing I have left to do after I mill the slide slots as well as drill the ejector hole. I might talk to my smith tomorrow and see if he would be willing to to cut the slots for me in the MSH area and thats it... if he'll even touch the things.