I have a Government 1911A1 that has a Group Gripper recoil spring follower/link installed with a Series 70 tanged bushing. I understand the idea behind the tanged bushing (and draw backs) however I have no idea what the concept is behind the Group Gripper. I intend to remove both and go back to the stock config. Will I notice a difference in accuracy?
It's supposed to add support to the rear of the barrel by forcing it up into the rear locking lugs.
The Group Gripper uses its internal spring acting on the link to force it and thus the barrel up into maximum engagement with the slide. In theory, this positions the aft end of the barrel in the same vertical (maximum upward) position for every shot for improved accuracy. Or, at least reduce vertical stringing of the fired group.
Whether or not you will notice any accuracy degradation depends on how much looser the gun is when it's removed.
the idea is to push everything at the muzzle up, topping out as round things do in round things to a repeatable in-battery alignment. If your 1911 is nice and tight, it won't do anything (you didn't even pay for it, right?). If it's kinda loose, then it may tighten up your groups a tad.
Me? I'd say "if it doesn't hurt, who cares, like it?... go with it."
Carry gun or range gun?
Range gun, run with it.
Carry gun, I'd probably change it back.
That tiny spring (actually a leaf spring) that pushes the special link up can't live long, it's so small. I am pretty sure that it would have little to no tension by now. As others said, if the pistol is set up properly, the Gripper offers you nothing. If not, then the best way to go is to have a gunsmith check your pistol and fit the barrel properly.
The Group Gripper (GG) is an inexpensive non-gunsmith fix to tighten the engagement of the rear of the barrel with the slide.
If the gun had tight engagement to begin with the GG won't do anything. If it was loose, the GG will help and in some cases help a lot. Shoot the gun and see how it groups. If it is good, leave it alone.
I have had what I call "lightning guns". Never hit the same place twice. Installed a GG and all of a sudden consistent tight groups. This applies to GI guns, Colt commercials and Colt Gold Cups.
As far as longevity, I am still using original Dan Dwyer Group Grippers that I bought new in the 1970s. These original ones worked well with a standard weight (16 lb) recoil spring. The newer Wilson Dwyer GG that I have require an 18 lb spring to close properly. The GG spring stays stiff.
I have not shot tens of thousands of rounds through individual guns. But I have read where others had GG fail after 20,000 rounds. That seems like a good life span for these.
Quote:
The newer Wilson Dwyer GG that I have require an 18 lb spring to close
properly.
This is an important observation. The Group Gripper bears on a ledge on the muzzleward side of the link. Therefore it is not only lifting the barrel up into engagement, it is applying force to rotate the link toward the unlocked position. If you do not have a hardball recoil spring, the gun may not lock up fully against the Group Gripper. My local 'smith has taken them out of guns that the owner could not get to shoot with light loads and soft springs.
A friend of mine used one in his Gold Cup and it improved the groups. While his gun did show a marked improvement, I doubt it can or will cure the ills of a poorly fit barrel. I view it as a bandaid fix. If it works for someone that's great. I don't have need of one at this time.
They work where the lug engagement has some slop.
With respect to recoil springs needing to be 18 lbs for Wilson Group Grippers, I have used them with 100% reliability with factory Remington and Winchester 185 SWC. Lighter than those rounds, I would agree round likely would not have enough power to cycle the gun.
I have used them with 16lb springs in full size guns with no problems.