I have a Rock Island frame with an Essex slide I had built into a 9mm. The gun is a great shooter, very accurate and mild in recoil. I really like it.
But, I have had extraction problems from the beginning. I had the pistol assembled by a reputable firm and I supplied a Wilson extractor (specifically for 9mm/.38 Super applications). This worked well for about 300 rounds of factory ammo.
I ordered a brand new Colt extractor (I recieved a Series 80 extractor, my pistol is Series 70) and I adjusted the tension to hold a round in place like I have done on my .45 ACP 1911's. Incidentally, I have never had an extraction problem with any of my .45's.
Today, after about 50 rounds, I started having extraction issues again. The fired case remains in the chamber and a fresh round has the nose butted up against the previously fired case.
Should I lightly polish the chamber in case there is a burr or maching marks that could be impeding extraction? Or, should I just send the top-end of this pistol to a good 1911 gunsmith?
My Colt Series 80 in .38 Super I converted to 9mm shoots like a house on fire and has never failed to positively extract. I also adjusted the tension on this pistols extractor just like I did on my problem 1911.
I don't much like messin' with 9mm in the 1911 platform... but it sounds like the hook needs a deeper bite in the extractor groove.
It sounds like the culprit is a rough chamber. Some 600 grit sandpaper, a wooden dowel, and some kerosene will take care of it. If you do it yourself, you need to pay extra special attention to not letting the sandpaper touch the front end of the chamber because that will affect headspace. Cut a slit in the wooden dowel about 1/2 to 2/3 of an inch in length. Cut a small strip of sandpaper (wet/dry) about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch shorter than the slit so there is some of the dowel sticking out the front. Wrap the sandpaper around the dowel tightly in the direction that it will not unravel when you start the drill. Wet the chamber with kerosene and dip the tip of the dowel in it as well. When you insert it into the barrel, slightly tilt the dowel so the edge of it will catch the front of the chamber and stop before the sandpaper hits it. When you start the drill, make sure you don't stay in one place, rotate around the chamber. A few passes around the chamber should clear up the problem. Clean as usual and reassemble.
I did something similiar too what you suggested last night. I cut down a Dremel felt polishing wheel to achieve a snug chamber fit then applied some polishing compound. I did this sparingly. Haven't shot it yet, so I have no idea if this will help.
Schmecky. If the chamber is involved...which isn't highly likely...it's probably because it has a little too much taper near the stop shoulder. Bill will have a proper finishing reamer on hand to clean it up. Now...Take the Dremel out in the driveway and hit it with a big hammer. 5-6 times oughta do it.
Well, I would have suggested chucking the barrel up on an engine lathe but those are usually harder to come by. That is my preferred method of chamber polising if the equipment is handy.
Did CST teach that polishing the chamber method to cure extraction woes?
The 1911 was designed for the .45ACP cartridge. The extractor is out of position for the 9mm cartridge, not enough of the hook is contacting the rim.
Try a Bar-Sto extractor. It has the largest vertical hook dimension. I've seen that fix several balky minor-caliber 1911s.
DO NOT TRY TO POLISH THE CHAMBER.
"Did CST teach that polishing the chamber method to cure extraction woes?"
They taught that a sticky chamber may be one cause but not the only one. The wrong extractor could also be the problem as Chris just mentioned.