Anyone have to do any ejection port work on their Brazilian slides?
Oh and what angle should the ejector be at?
How much material is safe to take off. Can someone measure the hieght of lowest part of the ejecton port on one that has factory tuning or something?
The problem is the last shot does not want to eject, and the other rounds are ejecting erratically, I know they are hitting the side of the port and glancing upward. Oh and its not locking back on the last shot either, so its screwing up the brass!
I usually mill open the ejection port, I mill it down to .450 starting from the bottom of the slide. Works for me. As for the ejector, the angle is not as important as you think, I make mine look like photo below, but about any angle will work.
It sounds like an extractor problem to me, although since it is not locking back, it could be weak ammo or too heavy a spring.
At any rate, when lowering your port, use a stone at least 3/8" in diameter... preferably 1/2" in diameter. Smaller radii in the corners can lead to cracks.
The slide not staying back on the last shot is a problem with your mag. I had the same problem with some cheap mags that I bought. The front end of the mag follower is split, and the left side (when holding the mag as if it was in the gun in a shooting position) turns down then back forward. This lip is what pushes the slide stop. If you hold the slide open and slowly slide your mag into the gun, watch to see what this lip is doing. Chances are it is moving to the right and going around the slide stop, because of play of the follower in the mag housing. To fix this use a small screwdriver, and gently pry the two lips of the front of the follower apart to spread them open, until there is less play of the follower in the mag housing. Try it in the gun again until it pushes the slide stop properly. I fixed 3 cheap mags this way, and now they function just as good as the original mag.
quote:
but the mag is not letting the trigger return foward!
Pull the trigger out and slide it up and down all your mags, if it binds then every so slightly bend out the two trigger stirrups so it will not bind on the mags. Next ensure the trigger will still drop in the frame and not be so wide as to bind and not pass the gravity test. Find a happy medium and you will have no problems.
Yeah, that's one of my problems, it wants to bind on the inside of the frame if I bend the trigger bar sligtly out. So I just took a pliers to the mag, and sqeezed it a bit, now it drops free, and the trigger works good. The mag was binding all the way up in the frame, and not just the trigger bar.
So now I just need to fix my 2 cheap 7 round mags and then everything is just fine!
On too-wide mags, when I can't bend out the trigger more, I first measure the mag's width with a caliper, then GENTLY tap it with a rubber mallet, measure it, flip it over, and tap it again (if need be to clear the trigger bow). If you overdo this, but only slightly, you can "shave" the sides of the mag's follower. As long as the follower, spring and ammo still move freely up and down the mag body, it's still usable.
Don't know if you've been to this site before, but I've found this particular page useful.
http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/reliability_secrets.htm
I have done most of those modifications already but thanks for the link. A rubber or brass hammer would probably be a better choice, but the plier seemed to work. The bad thing is, the cheap 7 round mags are not made to take apart, the 8 rounder that was only $13 (the 7's are $6) can be taken apart, but the folower is not binding anyway.
Um, they all come apart, I believe. Just press down on the follower with a toothbrush handle (the brush being used to clean the gun with) until a nail, etc. can be pushed thru the second hole from the top, in the side of the mag, trapping the mag spring, but not the follower. Invert the mag, and the follower will then fall out. Carefully catch the spring with your palm, and remove the nail. You then can examine, clean and modify all 3 parts of a 1911 mag.