I've been told to always work on the cheapest part, so I'm wondering, is there any safety reason why I should not file down slightly the sides of the top of my disconnector so that it will fit up through the hole?
I thought it might be better to work on the c heaper part rather than enlarge the hole in the frame (KT frame, Chip McC disconnector), but when it comes to the disconnector and the sear I need to be very careful and ask advice before doing anything!
If you can measure and figure out which part has the wrong dimension, hole or disconnector then correct the faulty part. If you just wanted to take a shot at it I would very carefully slim down the disconnector - do not shorten the top of it though.
I believe that the KT's frame has undersized holes as part of the 20% of the compleation process. I may be wrong here, but that's been my expearence with them. and also most common problem with those are the disconnector hole.
STONE! You can reduce the sides and back, but leave the front alone. Try to take half the necessary material from each side so it won't be off-center. Follow the radius as closely as you can. Polish it when it fits by rubbing it briskly on your blue jeans.
jblachly:
It sounds like you are saying your ejector is slightly not lining up with the
cutout in your slide. If so filing or stoning is no problem whatsoever. I have
seen many that needed a few thou removed in the right area before they would
clearance the slide. I usually put slide on as far as it will go and hold up
to a light source. You will see which surface of the ejector needs to be
clearanced easily.
PS just reread your post, if you are having problems getting ejector in frame then mic the hole in the frame and then your ejector. If its only a few thou I would remove the material from the post on the ejector with either a stone or shoe-shining with sandpaper.
Actually the issue is with the disconnector, and I don't even have a slide yet, I am still trying to get to get the fire control group installed and functioning properly...
OOPS
Misread your post, I have on occasion found the disconnector to not go in the frame. I only ever had a problem with the ones that had the ball on top of the disconnector, not the stock looking ones. Anyway I always filed on the disconnector until it went in the frame, sometimes just stoning it or shoe- shining it with sandpaper worked.
Hi Blindhogg, I had a similar problem when my slide was hitting the disconnector not allowing it to pass. I filed off the top of the disconnector but someone told me that this was very dangerous. Is it ok to file down the disconnector to allow the slide to pass?
I am with TX400cb1911 on this one. I have two of KT's 1911 frames and just opened up the hole a bit for the disconector and they work fine.
My problem is not the disconnector hole in the frame. It might be the hole under the slide that connects with the disconnector or the disconnector is a bit to long. What length should the disconnector tip should be?
Stoning the top of a disconnector is not a problem if it is too long to allow the slide to go over top of it.