This was done on a American Classic Commander.
Keep in mind this is new to me, I just thought of it but others have probably already discovered it.
I recently messed up a ejector install after marking it in the frame with a 1/16" punch. I just cut a little low and have to expand the hole higher up.
I tossed the thing and bought one with the hole in it. JM extended. I didn't like the short length so bought another extended one from caspian.
The Caspian didn't have the hole drilled (like normal) so I decided to drill it using the frame pin hole as the jig.
Now the way I did it is the exciting part to me anyway.
As most of you know a standard 1/16" bit like any other has the cutting surface maybe half way up the bit (just guessing).
So I decided to cut most of the cutting surface off with a pair of snips put it in a drill on reverse, hold it on the stone at a 15 degree anglel and put a correct cutting edge back on it.
Then with a little oil I put the bit into the right side of the frame and sure enough no cutting edge touched the hole so, just smooth bit shaft.
No accidental opening of the ejector pin hole.
Then I used the high speed setting and within 5 seconds had my perfect (as it can be) pin groove.
I sprayed the frame with some cleaner and put her back together.
From cutting the bit to back together was like 15 minutes and that was goinf slow.
If you do this right there will be a correct groove in the front leg and no accidents.
Like I said before if you have already done this than awesome! It was a new idea to me.
If it's simple and it works, it's good to go. A little involved, but if it works...
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As most of you know a standard 1/16" bit like any other has the cutting
surface maybe half way up the bit
You're thinking of a reamer. A drill's sole purpose is to make a plunging cut... a hole. A standard twist drill's cutting part is right behind the chisel point, across the corners where the angled point becomes straight. (Incidentally, the point is usually a 118 degree included angle... or 59 degrees on a side)All the flutes do is channel the chips away from the hole. Any extra "cutting" done on the straight sides is mainly scraping away some of the warts left by the cutting part, but that's incidental.
Nifty idea! But I'd caution anybody wanting to try this to be certain to leave enough flute length (volume) on the bit to accommodate all the chips produced. If the flutes fill up and the chips get packed in tight the bit could break. And if it breaks off leaving a piece down in the hole... well... uh... well, don't let that happen!
I don't think flute length will have an impact while drilling though something as thin as the leading edge of the front leg of a ejector.That's why I didn't hesitate to do this.
Glad it worked out, and cutting it short kept the flutes from egging the hole, which you're still lucky didn't happen, doing it this way. The fact that you sharpened it in a dull manner helped to keep it from snagging.
However it doesn't give the fit I look for, and that is the pull down effect when the notch is cut by marking, and off the frame a few thousandths high, as it should be done.
Unless the press started jumping up and down there is no way the flutes will touch the hole. So luck really has nothing to do with it. I can see it happening if I keep the drill spinning and pull it out while moving the clamps and the frame but not otherwise. I'm doing it on a few more today with these Caspian ejectors so I'll know in a few hours if I was right or not. I love the fit. I have tried prying the ejector up to see if it's tight and it doesn't budge. As well the pin still has to be tapped in with resistance. So I am not sure how that could be wrong.
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I don't think flute length will have an impact while drilling though
something as thin as the leading edge of the front leg of a ejector.That's why
I didn't hesitate to do this.
I was referring to other forum members who may not be as mechanically adept as you. And I tend to think like a "devil's advocate" and come up with all the different ways a seemingly simple job can be messed up by somebody with two left thumbs.
Carrying it a bit further, Bubba prepares a 1/16" drill with insufficient flute length, drills merrily away and the tip breaks off down in the hole. "Dang", Bubba mutters, and without thinking does the exact same thing from the other side. Bubba's now got a little piece broken off in the right hand side of the hole and another in the left side of the hole - with maybe just just a teeny bit peeking out, but down in the slot.
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I was referring to other forum members who may not be as mechanically adept
as you. And I tend to think like a "devil's advocate" and come up with all the
different ways a seemingly simple job can be messed up by somebody with two
left thumbs.
Carrying it a bit further, Bubba prepares a 1/16" drill with insufficient flute length, drills merrily away and the tip breaks off down in the hole. "Dang", Bubba mutters, and without thinking does the exact same thing from the other side. Bubba's now got a little piece broken off in the right hand side of the hole and another in the left side of the hole - with maybe just just a teeny bit peeking out, but down in the slot.
Of course, neither you nor I would do such a thing. But Bubba? Bubba the ham- fisted 1911 tinkerer?
Gotcha! I figured I was the least experienced at basement smithing as i've only been at it for 25 years or so... LOL! Just hadn't messed with 1911's for some time. I am a motorcycle mechanic and a Dell hardware tech..
But I've have done some stupid stuff over the years when I got in a hurry.
A 1/16" drill bit is quite flexible, and the point isn't hitting a flat surface, nor a tangent one, so it can want to flex forward as it walks down the radius, but hey.
Well not all bits are made equal of course.
Non-carbon bits would be more flexible than the ones I'm using..
But I see what you mean if you use something other than carbon... Not sure why someone would though??
BTW I finished the second 1911 (same results) but looking at the third caspian ejector is a problem.
Non-carbon bits would be more flexible than the ones I'm using.
But I see what you mean if you use something other than carbon... Not sure why someone would though??
Carbon? High speed steel would be minimal, then cobalt, but doesn't matter they are flexible anyway. Put a little side pressure while spinning and they will flex, when used they will follow the path of least resistance.
I'm sure you mean well... but It works.
There is no side pressure on my press.
I wasn't asking for advice just trying to share something that I did that took very little time, didn't require a jig, a file, marking or anything at all but a press some cutting fluid and some clamps, and about 45 seconds of drill time just to make sure nothing got squirly.
Just hoping others consider the consequences of doing exactly what has been warned against by others. It isn't the set up, it is the drill point, centering on the down side of the round leg that will change the drills path. It's just so easy to do it the safe way that has been used by most smiths. Your method is nothing new, just the exhortation that it is a good, sound way to machine a half round cut in the front of the extractor leg.
As far as your concern of negative comments in future posts, that will be the result of the posts in question content.
I for one suggest to all readers to consider the potential consequences of fitting an ejector in this way, against the rewards. The more common way doesn't take but a few minutes, as it is.
Iowa Guy;
I commend your innovation.
I'll share the way I do it with you, and others...
It' s an unavoidable characteristic of twist drills; they will walk, even on a flat surface. I don't usually use drills for holes that must be accurate. You were fortunately successful, and I am happy for you..
I like methods that are fast, and most of all, precise.
I secure the frame on a fixture plate. Zero the ejector pin hole with the milling machine spindle, and use a .062 centercutting end mill. It will cut a perfect notch in the exact spot and will not walk off center. I once shared this, years ago, and was inforomed that all one needs is a cordless Black & Decker and 1/16th bit...
So, as you see, you will find many opinions on inter net forums... but some of us actually do this everyday for a living...
Well anything would be faster than the way I did it. Making the notch with a few jewlers files and starting the cut a tad high, little bit at a time and putting the ejector in the frame over and over looking through the hole with a light to see how it was going. Finally got there, and the notch was high enough to where the pin pulled the ejector down tight, pin is in real tight. But dang, there has to be a faster way, just can't force myself to stick a drill in that hole. Too much to risk for a klutz like me, I'd screw that up for sure.
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It' s an unavoidable characteristic of twist drills; they will walk, even
on a flat surface
They will for a fact.
A guy I know once used a drill bit to make the cut in an ejector using the frame hole as a guide. Predictably, the bit walked and snapped off. Luckily, it nailed the ejector down solidly in the process...
My "Redneck" method works perfectly and doesn't take long.
After using a punch to lightly mark the spot on the ejector leg and using a round jeweler's file to remove about a third of the material needed... I clamp the frame in a small vise, and place a solid buck under it... with the ejector held firmly in place by the jaws.
Then, I grab a Brownells 1/16th punch from the batch that I order by the dozen. At one time, they were 2 bucks and change a copy, but they've gone up.
I grind a chisel point on the tip to provide chip space, and drive it through the hole. It cuts the notch and pushes the chip out the other side of the frame. When I see the end of the punch peeking through, I snap the punch off... use a safe side rail file to knock off any protrusions... and the ejector is there. If it becomes necessary to remove it, the pin can be driven out, provided it's driven in the same direction as it entered.
Yeah... You use up a punch every time, but it's still a lot cheaper than a Bridgeport mill with a 3-axis digital readout... a wiggler to find the center of the hole... a 1/16th end mill... and the fixture to mount the frame in. I've gotten it down to a fine art, and the whole job usually takes me less than 10 minutes.
Oh yeah. A drop of Cool Tool in the hole is a real good idea. If you don't have any on hand, Marvel Mystery Oil will do.
I've also had good results using a Brownells punch with quick-change bits, using the .060 punch... which is a couple thou smaller than 1/16th inch... and driving in a roll pin.
Either way accomplishes the same thing, and if done correctly, gives excellent results.
Not real sophisticated, but if it works...