My disconnector in the full up right position and touching the sear pin at the bottom is flush with the top of the slide. How high should the disconnector be above the frame in the highest position? The length of my disconnector is 1.308. My trigger just clears the sear and the sear engages the Hammer properly and the side saftey blocks the sear. I don't thing I could file enough at the bottom of the disconnector to get it go to far above the frame.
Is this a factory frame or a homebuild one bullpuppy?
First dumb question, is the disconector in the right way? Not back to front? it probably wouldn't fit that way anyway but just asking.
You can get a litle bit of extra height by elongating the "hole" in the disconnector but that would be a last resort.
Does the disconnector flat, engage the sear at all? Or is it below the sear level?
Does the trigger bow go foward enough to allow the disconnector to actually fit between the trigger and the sear where it needs to be?
It may just be a hangup of the trigger /bow that is not allowing the disconnector to rise fully and it is getting caught under the sear.
Is the disconnector hole in the frame big enough to allow the head through? Not to tight?
Try measuring the distance from the top of the frame to the bottom of the sear pin hole and compare that to the distance of the disconnector top of head to lowest point of the squarish hole. The disconnector measurement should be larger, if it is then I would suspect a hangup in one of those 2 places I mentioned, if not then something is out of tolerance and needs replacing or modifying.
Its gun cleaning day for a 45 fiend. A quick check with a cheap digital caliper gave;
.055" & .060" for the Springers
.055", .065" & .070" for the POs
.056", 0.065" & .067" for the 80%ers.
This is for my dedicated lower to a mech tech conversion and I am using a sarco $19 frame.
First dumb question, is the disconector in the right way? Not back to front? it probably wouldn't fit that way anyway but just asking.
-- Yes I figured that one out after some trys.
You can get a litle bit of extra height by elongating the "hole" in the disconnector but that would be a last resort.
-- Mounting the sear and plunger externally still does not clear the frame at any angel. I is flush with the top at best.
Does the disconnector flat, engage the sear at all? Or is it below the sear level?
-- yes it does appear to engage properly
Does the trigger bow go foward enough to allow the disconnector to actually fit between the trigger and the sear where it needs to be?
-- Yes
It may just be a hangup of the trigger /bow that is not allowing the disconnector to rise fully and it is getting caught under the sear.
-- It does not appear that way
Is the disconnector hole in the frame big enough to allow the head through? Not to tight?
-- Yes with out the sear in place the disconnector goes through.
Try measuring the distance from the top of the frame to the bottom of the sear pin hole and compare that to the distance of the disconnector top of head to lowest point of the squarish hole. The disconnector measurement should be larger, if it is then I would suspect a hangup in one of those 2 places I mentioned, if not then something is out of tolerance and needs replacing or modifying.
--This may be the case.
-- Mounting the frame on the unit show quite a gap (1/4) inch between the top of the frame and the bottom of the bolt itself. I check by rails and the seem to be in spec. I will do some more measurements but something is off.
I did some additional measurements
The distance from the bottom of the sear pin to the top of the frame is .827
The distance from the bottom hole of the disconnector to top is .829.
The distance from the bottom of the rail to the top of the frame is .224.
I checked the distance from the top frame to the bottom of the bolt and it is much less than 1/4 but I can't really meaure it.
Any suggestions on fixing this?
I have two of those Sarco frames that I have not yet started on. and I compared them to my Springfield GI model, and if I remember correctly, I am going to have to remove approximately .100 from the top plane of the frame. NOt to sound insulting, but you did measure your frame and compare the surface measurements to the blueprints??? Without being able to see it first hand, it seems as though you may have had to mill down your frame's top surface, and neglected to do that, making your disconector unable to protrude through the top. If that is the case, and your rails are already cut, I believe you have a major issue and don't quite know how it could be rectified other than welding up the rails and starting from 0 again.
Thanks John Q. I did not check that measurement. Don't worry about insulting me. Between my wife and my boss I have acquired immunity to insults.
My Sarco frame slide stop hole measures .175 and the distance from the top of the hole to the top of the frame is .392. So the distance to the top of the frame is (.175 / 2) + .392 = 0.4795
JB's blue prints indicates that the distance from the center of the slide stop to the top of the frame should be .750
So I am off by 0295.
Fortunately this is going to be a dedicated lower for a Mech Tech Carbine so I have some leeway. The only function of the rail is to secure the action to the unit. This is done by two tabs on each side of the unit. The unit is also held in place by a mouse hole where the slide stop is inserted.
According to Mech Tech the top of the frame does not contact the bolt. I could secure it to the unit by other means but I did not want to presently change the unit. I decided to cut the rails to see if I could do it.
I believe that I can lower the frame and the bottom of the rail as long as I have something above the tabs so the unit fits tightly. I can lower until as long as the top of the frame does not make contact with bolt and the dust cover does not make contact with the frame.
I fitted the magazine stop and file out the top of the magazine well (which was not wide enough) and in it's present state the unit feeds and ejects dummy rounds.
So I am going to try to lower it by .05 and check to see if the disconnect or functions properly. I still will have some space between the bolt and the frame in case I have to go lower.