Because of a double burst fire, I took a look at the disconnecter.
With slide off, I can push it in below flush and it stays there.
Pulling the trigger, it will pop up proud of the frame.
My other 1911s will not stick down.
Perhaps, I hope, bending the center leaf forward will put more pressure on the sear.
First... The disconnect should reset after being pushed down unless the trigger is held rearward. If it stays in the frame with the trigger forward... something is wrong.
Second... The disconnect should not reset when the trigger is pulled. It should reset when the trigger is released.
Third... The left leg of the sear spring applies tension to the sear. The center leg applies tension to the disconnect and trigger.
If the center leg of the sear spring contacts the disconnect too low on the triangle... it can cause burst fire. Too high, and the disconnect may not reset reliably, and the hammer either won't fall, or it falls to half-cock when the trigger is pulled.
If the sear isn't resetting fully into the hammer, and barely catching the tips of the hammer hooks... it can let the hammer jar off when the slide goes to battery. Most of the time, the half-cock stops it... but sometimes it doesn't.
The pistol had been running fine till yesterday.
I pulled the slide and noticed crud in the disconnect hole and cleaned and oiled that area.
If something is mechanically wrong, it's a trip back to the factory.
I was hoping I could fix myself, but, hesitant to take out trigger mechanism.
So, bending the spring leg is not the option??
Sounds like it needs a good scrubbin' Pappy. Detail strip it and scrub!
I'll pull the MSH and spring tomorrow. I will not go further (read trigger etc.) but will blast with brake cleaner and re-oil.
Just noted;
If I push the pin to just flush with the frame, it will pop up.
If I push below flush, then it sticks...
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I'll pull the MSH and spring tomorrow. I will not go further
Aw, c'mon Pappy! If ya take it down that far, ya might as well finish it.
Just be sure to look at how the parts orient so you can get it back together quicker.
If it's a Seriwes 80 Colt or a clone of same... the trigger lever can get tedious... but that's about as bad as it gets.
It's a NH and blasting with the brake cleaner, hopefully, will do it.
Triggers, after all the weeping and wailing I see here about reassembling triggers, I am hesitant.
Gotta learn to do it sooner or later! Seriously the first time is more of a mental challenge but once you do you'll be tearing it down after every range session. Can't go wrong with all the great illustrations and help from the folks on this site! I was scared to death 1st time but now it's a piece of cake!
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Gotta learn to do it sooner or later!! Seriouslly the first time is more of
a mental challenge but once you do you'll be tearing it down after every range
session. Can't go wrong with all the great illustrations and help from the
folks on this site! I was scared to death 1st time but now it's a piece of
cake!
Thanks for the encouragement.
The pistol is very new and I don't wish to be taking the trigger apart. I can't imagine anything is broken, but crud, is, hopefully the culprit.
Later today, when the sun is out, I'll study the assy. in good light.
NH will issue a shipping label to send back.
Update.
I believe its the sear spring.
Pushing the disconnect tip below flush causes the bottom area to escape the spring tension. Pulling the trigger resets the disconnect.
Swapping the sear springs between pistols and the problem goes with the spring.
Looking at the two springs, the only difference is the 'bad' leaf is a tad longer than the good spring.
I guess a new spring is in order...
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the only difference is the 'bad' leaf is a tad longer than the good
spring.
Yup. The end of that leaf has to hit the disconnect at the right place, or it'll cause problems.
Why not just shorten the leaf?
You're still gonna do the detail strip... Right?
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Why not just shorten the leaf?
yea, maybe on a $400 RIA or Springer GI
But for $2500+ beans, they outta send a little fella out there with a new spring AND a box of Andes chocolate mints
Don't rush and blame NH for this. The disconnector will never move below its hole in normal operation. Pappy reports that the problem occurs when he pushes the disco further down than its hole.
Shorten the leaf... Of course! And if I mess up, springs are free from NH or cheap on the open market...
I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel...
Detail strip the trigger assembly?
Last update, I hope!
Careful measuring showed that the 'bad' middle leaf was "0.037" longer than the 'good' leaf of the sear spring which worked fine.
So, I began to stone down the leaf by 5 thou and checking.
Interesting that the 'sticky' point was getting higher and higher at the disco tip (thanks John for the short version).
Finally at 20 thou off, no more sticking of the disco.
Popped off three rounds out the back door and no issues. Full range testing next week.
In retrospect, if the grip safety lever was off, eyeballing would have been much easier, as in detail strip...
Yep. It's usually somethin' simple like that...
Be sure to stone the small bevel at the top of the leaf so it'll slide up and down on the disconnect smoothly.
When I got down to 20 thou off, I squared the leaf end and smoothed the edges...
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When I got down to 20 thou off, I squared the leaf end and smoothed the
edges...
Stone the bevel, Pappy. If the corner snags on the disconnect, you'll be back to square one... and it may dig a groove in the bearing surface and ruin the disconnect.
Here's a good video takedown and reassembly
If you're worried about taking down your 1911 take a look at this U-tube video (or videos).
They cover disassembly and reassembly in clear detail. Although I see one thing I wouldn't do: when it comes to removing the mainspring housing (the lower part of the rear of the butt) I would uncock the hammer before punching out the mainspring housing pin to reduce pressure and maybe avoid some marking. Other than that these are very helpful.
Colt 1911 Takedown and assembly Part 2 (There is actually only one part)
http://video.google.com/videoplay?d...644410528433545
Colt 1911 reassembly animation Part 1 (receiver and frame)
http://video.google.com/videoplay?d...644410528433545
Colt 1911 reassembly animation Part 2 (slide)
http://video.google.com/videoplay?d...earch&plindex=0
Thanks Sunny Bill.
I was able to fix the problem by just removing the MSH.
No big deal, altho it would have been easier if I removed the grip safety.
A simple little trick I use to reinstall the the sear and disconnect:
I place the disconnect inside the frame (through the disconnect hole and the spade/shovel part on the trigger bow) and then set the sear atop the disconnect. Then I use a toothpick to line up the two holes and slide the toothpick through to hold them in place. I then follow the toothpick with the sear pin and Bingo! It is easy as pie to disassemble/reassemble a 1911. The first time can make you sweat a bit but after that it is a piece of pie.