My little bro bought a Kimber Ultra Carry [...] Took it home and was VERY disappointed to find one of his grip screw bushings is stripped at the frame.
Yes you can buy a tap and oversize bushings, this is the correct way to repair the pistol.
You may want to find a gunsmith to do this, it's an easy fix and I would have trouble justifying the cost of parts to do one pistol.
As Ronbo indicated, the correct fix is to buy an oversized bushing and retap the hole. Brownells sells both the bushing and the tap, but I believe the tap is quite expensive and it's hard to justify the cost unless you're a real 1911 aficionado and expect to do a few more in your lifetime.
Since aluminum is softer than steel, if there is ANY hint of thread left in the frame your brother could buy a new bushing and a small bottle of red Loctite, clean the hole thoroughly with alcohol, and then gently insert the new bushing with the threads coated with the Loctite. Let it set up for at least 24 hours (although it doesn't need that long), and then be gentle with the grip screws.
Rather than crank down on the grip screws, I'd suggest your brother look at using either purple (low-hold) Loctite on the screw threads, or putting a small rubber O-ring on each one so they'll hold without having to be torqued down.
Thanks for the replies. Wow, that tap is pricey! I'll let my bro know about it and see if he might get a local smith to do the job for around the same price, maybe less than buying that insanely priced tap!
Hawkmoon - Thanks for the loctite idea, but I don't think there is a single piece of thread in the frame. I think he's going to have to re-tap.
Don't underestimate the capability of red Loctite. Some nmanufacturers use it to secure the ejector, rather than pinning it. It's cheap to try it, and if it doesn't work ... the hole is going to be drilled and retapped so nothing lost.
Really I'd do what Hawk suggests first.
Loctite works by expanding to fill the void between the threads of the body and screw. so it could work here, threads or not it will still fill the void. and if I understand it's only one bushing.
It will possibly pin the grip, and with the other grip screw functional as long as the grip screw doesn't rotate out...
This is a cheaper version of the same tap 'maybe' it is the identical tap ... or maybe it is more identical.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduc...ctNumber=811185
And, on another note, one might find an odd, high thread count screw, a tap for it and a tap for the grip bushing. Then they could spend a few hours building a really odd-ball bushing!
The odd thing is a search of Midway does NOT show they carry an "Oversize Grip Bushing", just the tap from Swenson.
If one wanted a set of bushings they would need to order them from a second source.
The red loctite is worth a try, it's what is holding my plunger tube in for the most part. The biggest problem is the aluminum frame. Mine is steel.
Midway shows the tap as discontinued I've ordered from the guy in the ebay link, he ships very fast especially considering he's in Alaska. All his other 1911 parts are mostly John Masen so consider that if you look at any of his other auctions.
Oh, No.
I haven't seen his name come up recently, but ReddogAlaska has about the worst reputation (or used to) of any vendor I've ever seen mentioned on gun boards. I would strongly recommend against buying anything from him. (Not based on first-hand experience, I admit. I've just never seen anyone so universally reviled.)
Alrighty, thank you all for your help with this (thanks Ron for the PM). We'll try loctite first (thanks Hawkmoon) and then go for the tap option. I'll let my bro know there's hope for his Kimber.
Brownells!!!!!!!
If the 1911 was perfect, it'd have left handed threads on the bushings...
yes, he got a bad rep selling knockoff (probably Chinese) metalform magazines as real Colt ones, I see he doesn't sell any magazines anymore. I ordered a slide stop/thumb saftey set from him before I had heard of his rep and the deal went fine, I had my parts in 3 days, but they are JTM parts, so they aren't worth any more than I paid, $20 shipped for the set. Needless to say, they are in my parts bin, not on my pistol.
Halito. Well, something you might try, since aluminum is ductile, is swaging the area around the bushing hole in several spots to give some "bite" for the bushing. I know, I know, aluminum is ductile but fractures easily when stretched very far, but this would be a very small amount. Love the 1911, New York (New York City??...animal...) and the forum.
Anyway, just spoke to my brother and shared the feedback from everyone here. He's looking into getting into the gunsmithing business (that'll be another thread) so he might go ahead and get that .255-60 tap although he's thinking one should exsist in the general tool industry. Meanwhile, he's going to try loctite.
Now that I'm hearing the feedback on the ebay guy, I'm wondering "If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is." I wonder if he's selling some "Harbor Freight" special?
Quote:
I for one would be stunned if your brother could find that tap at anyplace
but what's already been mentioned.
Since it is not an 'oddball standard' one's options are to purchase from known sources or pay a lot more for a custom tap. (I've had to do the custom tap before and can guarantee it is not cheap although, it is cheaper now than it was 30 years ago in dollars, not including inflation.)
I'd almost bet a 1/4-56 'wallered a bit' would grab the .255-60 OS bushing very well. But, the cost of the proper tap is not much more than the 'oddball standard' 1/4-56 taps.
Quote:
I'd almost bet a 1/4-56 'wallered a bit' would grab the .255-60 OS bushing
very well.
You're probably right, especially considering there's only about 5 threads in the frame and one less on the bushing (if it's made like an Ordnance spec bushing).
And if the frame was cast from old ground up rusty Subaru fenders, no wallering would probably be needed at all!
Some of the older firearms that were made before the standardization of such things as threads sizes, screws, etc, have screws and threads that do not exist any more.
Most gun screws have a very fine thread count compared to most common applications.
Me I'd buy the tap:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=..._BUSHINGS___TAP
Alrighty, thanks for the feedback guys. I'll let him know not to waste his time looking outside of this industry (outside of Brownells really).
We're new to this and I truly appreciate everyone's input here. I would think that tap would be available from Irwin at the local tool supply, but I wouldn't know 'cause I never needed one until now. I appreciate you saving us the legwork!
Quick Update
Went shooting the other day and thought I'd share with the forum that my Bro's Loctite fix on his grip screw has held up thus far.