I have an 07/08 Auto-Ord parked WWII model that has been greatly reliable for under $400 OTD before taxes. I only had 1 or 2 stove pipes using only the factory mag in 500 rounds that where easily dumped out. The fit,finish,and trigger is great. I think this is the most under rated, best deal on the market,and truest to G.I blueprint. However, the accuracy is not stellar. I am looking to replace the micro GI sights with the taller Colt GI style or possibly Millett adj. if I can find the correct front or matching set. It seems like there are allot of random flyers and it patterns more than groups even close up. Could I get away with a Colt National Match bushing. I would hate to have to spend the money to get an EGW bushing custom spec'd to this GI barrel. Actually the muzzle end is pretty tight but the chamber area seems a little loose. This is probably good for reliability but I'm thinking I could benefit from a different barrel link.
A different link is not going to improve the accuracy of your pistol.
NM bushings are designed to work with NM barrels. NM barrels are reduced in diameter just behind the muzzle to allow for free slide movement after the barrel is linked down. Besides, if you have but little slop at the muzzle you'd probably notice no accuracy improvement.
A longer link would reduce some of the vertical play at the back end of the barrel, but this method can be tricky. If not done correctly you can break your gun. If you don't want to get a custom EGW bushing you certainly wouldn't want to spring for a new NM bushing and barrel either.
One alternative is to install a Group Gripper
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One alternative is to install a Group Gripper:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=...UIDE_ROD___PLUG
The tiny spring in that thing gets fatigued real soon. Then it stops offering any advantage.
The only real solution at accurizing the rear end of the barrel is to have a gunsmith install a match barrel or weld the feet of the existing barrel (and possibly the hood too) and fit the barrel so that it rides the slide stop properly, when locking up.
Thanks guys. I got the idea for a barrel link from this good writeup.
http://www.thesixgunjournal.net/aoww2.html
His gun is exactly like mine and almost from the same batch. I think he settled on a .280 link that I believe to be a standard, #3 link, by the off chance that mine is off spec also.
I actually am going to spring for a Storm-Lake or even go all the way with a Bar-sto because I need a thread barrel in the future. Either with a matching link and bushing.
I just want the factory barrel to be all that it can be also as I plan to shoot it to a smooth bore. The factory bushing is actually very nice for GI spec with no noticeable play at lock up and just tight enough to be able to remove by hand. I just like the looks of a SS bushing and love the NM stamp on the end. Can anyone recommend a good bushing or is EGW pretty good? When ordering how much +/- should i go compared to the barrel OD and slide ID.
Quote:
His gun is exactly like mine and almost from the same batch. I think he
settled on a .280 link that I believe to be a standard, #3 link, by the off
chance that mine is off spec also.
But his gun had a .283 link which means that the barrel was probably riding the link into battery not riding the barrel knees. He installed a shorter, .278 standard length link, to allow the barrel to ride the knees in battery and not the link. He eventually tried a .280 link.
No where did I read that he measured his vertical lug engagement or what percentage of vertical lug contact he had. Or any barrel linkdown timing measurements. Or if he had VIS contact or not. Or even if the pin was contacting the barrel knees.
I sounds like he just installed an different link and started shooting.
I wonder how long his pistol lasted?
That article is a bit difficult for me to follow, but the way I understand it the groups got smaller when the link was changed from a 283 to a 280. In the average Gov't Model, the barrel rides even a standard 278 link, so going to a shorter link (the 280) should slightly increase vertical slop at the aft end of the barrel and thus should slightly increase the group's vertical size - not decrease it.
AgentAdam: How much measured vertical slop do you have at the back of your barrel?
Where should I measure, the front or back or the barrel hood?
If anything a slightly longer link would be better but I haven't measured whats in it now.
I have good lower leg VIS and timing but need to check top lugs engagement depth also.
Quote: Where should I measure, the front or back or the barrel hood? If you use this setup...
...to measure the locking lug engagement, you can use to measure barrel slop at the front of the port. Or measure the slop at the back of the port (hood) - your choice.