I am interested in replacing the barrel bushing in my Norinco with one that is a little tighter. The barrel OD is .579. I found a Brown bushing with an ID of .581. Would that work? I am concerned with clearance since the Norks barrel is straight. Has anyone swapped out the bushing in their Norinco? If so then what kind did you use. The factory bushing is .584.
You should be just fine with the Brown bushing. It may actually be just a bit tight, but you shouldn't have any problem.
Gary, I assume you are considering bushing change to see if tightening it up improves accuracy? If it does, let us know how it works. PS: Have several Norks... love em!
Have a quick question just joined this site. Have a CZ52 which I like just got a TT33 from AIM after field stripping it to rid of the cosmoline I was putting back the recoil spring sleeve and don't remember where it was when I took it apart. MY question does the curved end of the sleeve go in front of the slots or does it go in one of them (on barrel). I have it back to gether and it seems like it alright but not sure I did put it in front of the slots...
It seems like it is awful tough to rack... It was the same way before I did this so that is not new
Norinco barrels don't have the reduced diameter back-cut like most modern barrels do, and a bushing that provides .002 inch of clearance probably won't let the barrel link down fully to the bed. Test it for free barrel drop before you shoot it. If the bushing keeps the barrel from clearing the slide, you'll wind up with damaged lugs.
Sorry, but I don't understand your description. The Tokarev is much like the M1911 in that area. The recoil spring guide goes with its large end back against the bottom barrel lug (where the link is), the concave part up toward the barrel. The recoil spring goes on over that, then the bushing is swung to the side and the recoil spring retainer put in (short end out); then it is pushed in while the barrel bushing is swung down to keep it in place. The front of the recoil spring retainer comes through the smaller hole in the barrel bushing.
I don't know what you mean about the lugs; nothing goes "in" them. They have the same function as in any other dropping barrel pistol. The only differece from the M1911 is that the Russians left the lugs all the way around rather than machining off the bottom part.
I took the slide off with the barrel in place the the concave part is positioned up against the barrel in proper manner I see that is almost to the barrel linkage ,actually against it.I didnt put it there but I am assuming (yes I know about assumming) that it goes there naturally I had put it in front of the first Lug but it ended up next to the linkage . I dont dont if that is right or not it does rack alright just like before. I have the manual it is just not clear to me.. your help is appreciated am I right to leave it this way.. I think you are calling the lug that holds the linkage for the pin that holds slide in...
Tuner, the Norinco bushing has slop both where the bushing mates with the slide and where it mates with the barrel. What would it gain me if I reamed out a tight bushing so that the barrel would clear? I am thinking that I would still be ahead since the bushing to slide fit would now be tight and I might be able to reduce the barrel to bushing fit by at least a little bit. Is this reasoning correct and do you believe that it would be worth the trouble?
Gary... You'd have the same slop between the barrel bushing as the stock bushing provides, but you'd be ahead on the bushing to slide fit. Every little bit helps, but unless there's a fairly big difference in the fit...i t may not be enough to make it worth your time and effort.
If you know someone who has a lathe, you can chuck the barrel up and use a die grinder... carefully... to reduce the barrel's diameter starting about a quarter-inch behind the muzzle so you don't need to ream the bushing.
The reduction doesn't need to go all the way to the forward lug. Just far enough to let the barrel drop freely. About .005 inch should do it... but test just to be sure.
The reason that you'll need to grind it is because the stock Norinco barrel is hard-chromed. A file won't touch it. It's thin, though. Once you grind through it, you can use a mill file to finish the job and it'll let you hold a closer tolerance on the finished diameter over the length of the barrel.
Understand that, once you breach the chrome plating, that there's a fair chance it'll flake and peel on other areas.
It sounds like I should start to think about a new barrel. It seems like I have read here that Springfield barrels work in Norincos with little or no fitting. Is that true? If so then I will attempt to locate one and see if I can install it. I have Kuhnhausen's boof for reference. Does this sound viable? Thanks.
I've put 1 SA and one Storm Lake barrel into Norincos... both the so-called "drop-in" type. Little to no fitting required... might just have been lucky though. I then used EGW angle-bored bushings. Nice, inexpensive plinkers, although Norincos aren't the bargain they used to be.
Gary... At one time, you could get Springfield's stainless one-piece service barrel that worked out very well in stock Norincos with a little light fitting at the hood. Not sure, but I've heard from a couple of sources that Springfield has stopped selling the barrels to the public. You can call them and find out.
I've used four of the barrels, and they're quite good. Not on the same level as a Kart or Storm Lake "fit-required" barrel... but very good for a semi drop-in. The last one that I bought was 90 bucks + shipping... so they're not cheap.